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"In the mid-nineties, however, this laidback
scenario began to change. Designers began to rise on the horizon of the
fast-developing fashion industry and, in time, each made a name for
himself or herself. The look, the colour and more emphatically the kind
of embroidery began to be branded and was recognised as the work of a
specific designer. Brides from well-to-do families began to patronise
their designers. As younger heroines came into technically superb films,
the wedding or party clothes worn by Madhuri Dixit, Kajol, Aishwarya
Rai, Manisha Koirala, Karisma Kapoor and others became the rage of
society weddings. Indeed, Madhuri’s purple outfit in Hum Apke Hain
Kaun set a trend for purple that year. Aishwarya’s peach outfit in
Aur Pyar Ho Gaya created an excitement among the brides of that
year. Today’s films, which are called ‘wedding videos’ in humour,
have many designers working for the heroines, and brides love to follow
the trend set by stars."
However, Pallavi follows her own genius. Her
embroidery tilts towards European work but the clothes are very Indian.
"I don’t mess around with the basic bridal look. The flared ghagra
and the fitting choli is the right outfit for a bride but
variations in chunnis and cholis are possible. I decide
the outfit, the fabric, the colour and the look depending upon the
season, the venue, the bride’s personality and of course, her budget.
Sometimes, I do the bridegroom’s or the entire bridal party’s
clothes. I also advise on jewellery and accessories. It is difficult to
record or photograph such exclusively created clothes because brides are
very superstitious about the clothes and do not want models to wear
them. The clothes are actually packed away from prying eyes and brought
out just before the wedding."
Pallavi has a workshop where 150 karigars are
employed the year round. More recently, she opened her boutique in
central Mumbai to showcase her clothes in the affordable line. "My
shop reflects my personality in the best way," she says.
Pallavi, Abu Sandeep and Tarun Tahiliani are holding
up the wedding fashion industry on their able shoulders. Though other
designers also do bridal outfits, they are recognised as the best. Now
with the winter marriage season setting in, no doubt they will be kept
busy! Down the social ladder, in the middle class, brides choose copies
of designer clothes in high street stores or get them made by their
family tailors, keeping in mind the trend shown by the designers.
Your invitation to the wedding ...
Beginning with a home-based small industry, Minal
Desai has become a well-known wedding stationery designer. Here is a
glimpse of the business route she took, and the success she enjoys
today.
At the wedding of Rajat Barjatya, scion of the Hindi
film industry’s premier family — the Barjatyas of Rajshri
Productions — the decor and the stationery were two items which drew
the attention of art cognoscenti. While the decor was designed by artist
Aruna Purohit, the cards, bags, envelopes and letter designs were
created by a modest woman who has built a burgeoning home industry as a
designer of exclusive cards, bags, packaging and other auspicious paper
items needed for a wedding.
Minal Desai, married for 19 years, had never thought
that she would one day become designer to some of the most prestigious
shops and families for their stationery and gift-wrapping. "My
mother had this artistic gift of creating ethnic gift bags and cards and
I must have learnt by watching her or I must have inherited her
aptitude. I used to make cards or gift boxes for my friends till one
day, a friend asked me to go commercial. I got my first order from the
Catholic Gymkhana in Mumbai for mithai boxes. Word-of-mouth
publicity gave me instant encouragement and I was on my way to becoming
a well-established entrepreneur. I took a short course in craft from
Nirmala Niketan in 1994 and the next year, started my business. I make
cards, eco-friendly boxes and bags, stationery and gift-wrapping items.
"Today, in five years, my business has grown 500
times. I get cardboard, Ganesha and Lakshmi icons, jute fabric, acrylic,
cotton and silk fabrics, basketry, paper, dry flowers, ribbons, beads,
silver trinkets, stones, shells, chattai and readymade bows from all
corners of India. I use these in designing boxes and bags. I have a
catalogue of designs from where clients choose their style. I manage my
production with a team of three live-in bais and seven karigars
who come in each day. Large orders are executed in the family factory
and delivery is taken by clients who pay on time. This way, I’m happy
and my clients are satisfied. I have worked for Sindhi, Punjabi, Marwari
clients and a number of corporates. For those who prefer western-style
bags and gifts or cards, I create beautiful designs with flowers and
bows. But my major business is in ethnic designs." Minal says, as
she looks forward to expanding her company.
— VP
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The pleasure of your company
Did you know that Rashtrapati Bhavan banquets given
by the President of India to visiting world leaders or royalty are
governed by three different coloured lights? Reportedly, they are blue,
red and white and each goes on when a course is in progress, a course is
over and a fresh course has to be served. This was so also at the recent
banquet given by President Narayan to the visiting US President Bill
Clinton and his family.
"The man with his finger on the switches watches
the celebrity chief guests’ plates and whenever they put their forks
and knives down, turns on the light for removal of plates," says
Ranjana Salgaocar, author of The Pleasure of Your Company, one of
India’s most successful books on etiquette and manners for all
occasions, "If other guests have not kept pace with the honoured
chief guests, it is too bad for them for they cannot continue to eat a
course of food when the celebrities are twiddling their thumbs."
The book also teaches personality enhancement through social graces and
public relations through properly designed entertaining and hospitality,
which are a modern gateway to global business.
Ranjana has written the book after personally
experiencing the entertaining system in the Rashtrapati Bhavan and at
the Prime Minister’s Hyderabad House parties because she comes from an
eminent family and is married into the famous industrialist family —
the Salgaocars of Goa. "My father was a commissioner of police. So
we travelled a great deal on transfers and had a busy social life.
Whenever I went to parties or formal occasions with my father, I would
wait for him to deal with the situation at the dining table or at the
party and then copy him. At home, I would make small notes on the rules
and regulations of social life and the protocol observed on important
occasions. These notes just kept piling up until four years ago, I
thought: Why not put them together as a book! I began working towards
this objective and in 1996, The Pleasure of Your Company was
published by us and distributed by the IBD".
Ranjana’s very useful and timely book features
table manners, weddings and theme parties for all occasions, proper use
of expensive China, linen and cutlery. It offers a guide to wines,
cheeses, liquors, liqueurs and food. It describes social graces, Indian
and western hospitality traditions, and gives tips on acquiring a
gracious social personality. The book is a veritable manual on behaviour
in a world which is becoming smaller by the day.
As an offshoot of this book, Ranjana became involved
in yet another interesting activity. "Many people asked me to do
workshops for them. But I picked and chose those I wanted to do. In the
past four years, I have conducted about 20 courses for corporate
executives who have to do business abroad or entertain in the course of
their business. A company is free to invite spouses to these sessions if
they wish. But I don’t do courses specially for women separately.
There are finishing schools for women to receive similar education. But
for men who are upwardly mobile and have to travel for business, these
workshops are extremely useful".
—VP
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