The Tribune - Spectrum
 
ART & LITERATURE
'ART AND SOUL
BOOKS
MUSINGS
TIME OFF
YOUR OPTION
ENTERTAINMENT
BOLLYWOOD BHELPURI
TELEVISION
WIDE ANGLE
FITNESS
GARDEN LIFE
NATURE
SUGAR 'N' SPICE
CONSUMER ALERT
TRAVEL
INTERACTIVE FEATURES
CAPTION CONTEST
FEEDBACK



Sunday, October 28, 2001
Books

An uncut diamond in Himalayas
Review by Jaswant Kaur

Himalayan Kingdom: Bhutan — Tradition, Transition and Transformation
by A.C. Sinha. Indus Publishing, New Delhi. Pages 260. Rs 450.

IN the present phase of modernisation and industrialisation almost all countries are busy in formulating policies to check population growth and environmental pollution. Bhutan is an exception. Its lofty mountains, thick forests, clear rivers, low population and pollution-free environment gladden every visitor. The Wangchuk rulers have given their people a green land to live, fresh air to breathe and pure water to drink.

The book "Himalayan Kingdom: Bhutan — Tradition, Transition and Transformation" is the story of the transformation of Bhutan from a theocratic state to a monarchial one. Divided into three sections — "Tradition", "Transition" and "Transformation" — it is an account of its history, incorporation of dynastic rule, introduction of modern education, its present political culture, prevalent ethnic conflict and efforts to end it.

Bhutan, popularly known as the "dragon kingdom", is the only Buddhist kingdom in the world. Surrounded by China in the north and north-west and India in west, south and east, Bhutan has a unique history. It is a land where "exiles, refugees and adventures"could establish their authority. Even Zhabs-drung Ngawang Namgyal, the founder of Bhutan, was an exile from Tibet. Not only this, about a third of the population consists of the Lhotshampas, Bhutanese Nepalese, who migrated to Bhutan from Nepal.

 


Unlike other South Asian countries which are fast developing, Bhutan is reluctantly modernising. Modernisation, the Bhutanese think, is more of a curse than a blessing, and may distance them from their culture, a legacy they do not want to disown.

Until a few decades ago, Bhutan had no centre of higher education, newspapers, radio station and other means of communication. The only city with wheeled transportation was Thimpu, its capital. Things, however, have changed now. Previously reluctant, the Bhutanese are now more open and free to the outside world. They have overthrown the old and inefficient Brugpa (Dukpa) government based on the old Tibetan concept paving the way for the present Wangchuk rule.

The 19th century Bhutan, under the Brugpa government, was a witness to regular civil wars. The economy was in chaos. The administration had lost control because of the ambiguous status of its functionaries. Furthermore, the system of incarnation was very complex, mysterious and shadowy.

Despite this uncertainty, strife, conflict and unending civil wars, Zhabs-drung Ngawang Namgyal and his successors continued the theocratic regime for about 300 years. Perhaps this chaotic system would have continued had not internal and external social forces changed dramatically leading to the emergence of the Wangchuk rule.

The new Bhutanese administration underwent major changes. The old system of incarnation was discontinued. A four-tier system of administration at the central, district, block and village levels controlled by the central secretariat has been introduced. The central secretariat was managed by bureaucrats nominated by the Royal Civil Service Commission which in turn is controlled by the Council of Ministers elected by the National Assembly (the Tshongdu). The King controls various departments through royal representatives, Ministers and secretaries.

The country is divided into 20 districts and 196 development blocks (geoys). The districts are headed by Drongdas who act as a link between the central government, development blocks and the villages. The development blocks act as intermediaries between the districts and the villages.

However, most of the Bhutanese institutions are still in a formative stage as their precise functions have not been defined.

Another major development is the introduction of higher education. The old system based on the Lamaist tradition was not efficient enough to handle complex administrative problems. The modern system still has elements of the Lamaist traditions but is evolving.

However, the establishment of Wangchuk rule did not bring respite to the people. The old and traditional Brugpa government had gone but Bhutan continues to bear the brunt of its misdeeds. Endless wars fought by the theocratic regime brought it in direct conflict with British colonial rulers who appointed British advisers in Bhutan, more for their own ends than to help the new principality.

For a long period, the British colonialists allowed Nepalese immigrants to clear forestland on which European tea planters of Darjeeling had cast their eye. Darjeeling, with the help of these immigrants, was becoming a thriving trading centre and a launching pad for the British intrusion northwards along with the Lamaist states. It also provided a safe haven for fugitives from Sikkim, Tibet and Bhutan, a major cause for the present ethnic conflict.

During World War II the Assam Rifles was raised which increased job opportunities. The government of Assam wanted to recruit the Nepalese settlers which was rejected by Bhutan. The British colonialists wanted to integrate Bhutan with the Indian system of administration, including the armed forces, but this idea met a setback which led to the birth of a new kingdom, an independent Bhutan with clearly demarcated boundaries.

The idea of strictly demarcated boundaries and legally identifiable citizenship rights added to the Bhutanese predicament. The new dispensation required everybody to be a Drukpa for which the Lhotshampas were to be assimilated with the Bhutanese. Accordingly, Jit Bahadur Chetri, a member of the Royal Advisory Council, started issuing certificates to the Lhotshampas for seeking jobs, licences, contracts, admissions to academic institutions, etc. This questioned their special status, an issue which contributed to an ethnic clash.

The Lhotshampas, lured by better wages and facilities in Bhutan, started bringing their families from across the border, increasing the population alarmingly. The king in order to mark the genuine Bhutanese from the immigrants introduced the concept of "one man one country" and a "code of conduct" which raised the feeling of being discriminated against among the Lhotshampas.

Yet another blow came in the form of the green belt policy. Suddenly the government had felt the need for a green belt on the southern borders partly to check soil erosion and flood and partly to provide a "distinct" border between India and Bhutan. India gave its consent in its attempt to protect the environment.

Poor Lhotshampas, who had worked in "hot, humid conditions and malarial black waters" to cultivate the only land known to them, were asked to move out. They were given two options: either to leave Bhutan with some monetary compensation or to shift to the interiors of Bhutan and develop undeveloped area.

As a result Lhotshampas in large numbers left Bhutan and started living in refugee camps.

And those who stayed behind have the same tale to tell. Their life has become miserable. They are deprived of their basic rights. Their children do not get admission in schools. Health clinics have closed their door on them. Those holding government posts were thrown out of their jobs.

Efforts were made both by Bhutan and Nepal to solve the problem but in vain. The stalemate continues. But hope remains.

This book dealing with a SAARC member is an impressive introduction to its multi-ethnic society and its faultlines.