TIME was when each region of India had its own traditional costume for the bride. Each community had a specific design for the bridal sari and even ornaments were specially created to signify luck and good fortune for the bride. This is still so in most states of India. But increasingly, young, upmarket Indian families are looking towards designers to create wedding finery for the beautiful brides. Months before the event, the bride tries out the colours, shapes and styles of embroidery to see what suits her and what might make her wedding day memorable.

Designers, too, have been coming out with new looks, new colours and new ways to entice the bride to spend money on her trousseau. Embroidery of a vast variety, fabrics of every texture and colour and flowing looks which create an aura of glamour and demure happiness are the ingredients with which a designer tries to create a winning outfit.

Most designers consider the bride to be an ‘event’ in herself. Her hair, make-up, clothes and jewellery are of paramount importance. Krishna Mehta, Pallavi Jaikishen, Ritu Kumar, Tarun Tahiliani, Azeem Khan, Sujata Kothari and so many other hi-end designers who have introduced grand bridal collections this year say collectively, "The bride of today does not like the old-fashioned chamak-damak. Simplicity and understated glamour are the keywords today. However, the colour and the embroidery are the main elements of every bridal outfit. Our collections focus on new concepts like lace, net, meenakari, velvet, shaded fabrics and chiffons as well as the traditional silk and zardosi, zari and heavy silk. The bride today is acutely aware of fashion trends and every wedding is a social event. Designer clothes allow a bride to express her personality. She helps the designer to create her own individual ensemble, which is the expression of her individuality. Bridal wear this season is based on warm tones with rich embroidery. The silhouettes are graceful and fluid. Deep reds, burgundies, violets, indigos, rusts and olives are used with a jamawar effect to create spectacular outfits for brides."

The main outfits for the wedding and the reception are considered sacred in India. Understanding these sentiments, designers do not divulge the colour or the look to anyone and pack away the ensembles when ready, only to be opened on the wedding day. Outfits for other celebrations like mehndi or sangeet are made separately. These days, there are special designers who create the ancillary clothes.

Additionally, the brides of today want expert hairstylists, who, in most cases, have to give trials with flowers and accessories to match the outfit till the final choice is made. Make-up artists, clothes stylist, mehendi women — all are booked months ahead to create the bridal look.

Judging from what is seen at the elite fashion shows this season, it looks like brides this year will wear more embroidered clothes than ever before. This is because Indian embroidery has hit a new high of popularity the world over and even internationally famous designers in Paris, Milan and London are getting their ensembles embroidered by craftspersons in Indian villages. Indian designers have not missed this new wave of popularity and have used their traditional treasure of zari and silk embroidery to entice the brides this season!