KHINCHAN — the winter home of demoiselle cranes (anthropoides virgo) — is a name well-known to bird lovers of India. During winter months (October to March) this tiny and quiet village in western Rajasthan echoes with the trumpeting sound of thousands of demoiselle cranes, who make the fields surrounding the village their winter abode each year. These demoiselle cranes are locally called kurjaa. The congregation of birds in this village is an awesome sight. Flying in the sky and preening around the village these birds are the ultimate delight for nature lovers.

Migration of these feathered denizens from their breeding grounds in Eurasia and Mongolia to western Rajasthan is a regular phenomenon. During cold months hostile climatic conditions and food scarcity in their breeding areas compel them to migrate southward. Ideal climatic conditions and plentiful food in Rajasthan provide a safe home during winter months.

Their presence is frequently referred to in the folk songs of Rajasthan, in which they symbolise the pain and agony of a newly-married young woman whose husband has gone far away to earn his bread and butter. In the folk song Supano, a young woman asks the cranes to convey a message to her husband who has gone to another country.

Demoiselle cranes make Khinchan, in western Rajasthan, their winter abode each year

Khinchan is supposed to host the largest number of demoiselle cranes in India. The fact that they live in such close proximity to human being is strange. A decade ago only some hundred cranes came to this village. With careful protection and systematic feeding by village volunteers and NGOs their number has now gone up to 10,000.

Just before dawn the birds reach fields near the village for feeding. Their food comprises seeds of mooth, bajara and other grains scattered in the cultivated fields. They are also fond of mothia grass, commonly found in the area. Beside these foodgrains they are fond of eating calcium-rich small stones from the ground. These undigested stone granules can be seen in their excreta. During the day the birds preen themselves in the open fields near the village pond, locally called Naadi. In the afternoon, they come to drink water to quench their thirst. At Khinchan demoiselle cranes can be seen living in close proximity to human beings which is contrary to their normal behaviour. In general, cranes are very shy of human beings and always stay at a safe distance but at Khinchan they are so used to human beings that one can observe and photograph them at a close distance. Local camel-cart pullers who cross these flocks do not seem to frighten the birds.

To feed the birds, villagers have converted a small patch of the land at the edge of the village into Pakshi Chugga Ghar. This patch of land provides a safe place to distribute grains for the birds twice a day. To feed and protect these beautiful winter guests the Pakshi Chugga Ghar and Marwar Cranes Foundation are doing a great job. The financial requirement of these organisations is met through donations. Every year the Pakshi Chugga Ghar distributes tonnes of grains to feed the birds. A dedicated old man Ratanlal Jain has been distributing the grain twice a day for the past many years. At the time of feeding Ratanlal calls the flying birds in a typical voice. Birds respond to his call and land there in a disciplined way. The arrival and departure of the cranes at the Pakshi Chugga Ghar is a marvellous sight.

With the increasing popularity of Khinchan, the RTDC has made efforts to put the village on the tourist map. They have connected this small village in the Thar Desert with the golden triangle of Jodhpur, Bikaner and Jaisalmer. These cities are almost equidistant to Khinchan and it takes about three hours to reach Khinchan from any of these. Each year a number of foreign as well as domestic tourists visit this place. In view of the increasing number of tourists in the area the RTDC plans to accommodate some in nearby areas. Khinchan is 5 km away from Faloudi town, a tehsil headquarters in Jodhpur district. This town is the nearest place to Khinchan where a few hotels can provide simple vegetarian food and accommodation. Local auto-rickshawallahs can take one to Khinchan within few minutes. At Faloudi some locals are always ready to provide food and shelter to genuine bird lovers.

Though the migration of the birds starts from October, the largest numbers of them can be seen during the coldest days of December and January. Besides Khinchan, demoiselle cranes also visit different villages of central and north-western Rajasthan. Apart from this, these birds also visit Taalchapar (Churu), Ramdevara, Pokaran, Bhaniyana, Phalsund, Ghadsisar (Jaisalmer), Gajner, Hanuman Nagar, Loonkaransar (Bikaner) and Badopal Lake (Sri Ganganagar). For the migrating birds, water spots along the Indira Gandhi Canal are an ideal place for winter months. A number of migrating water birds like brahmany duck (tadorna ferruginea), mallard (anas platyrhynchos), tufted duck (aythyafuligula), wigeon (Anas penelope), shoveler (anas clypeata), pintail (anas acuta), coots (fulica atra), flemingo (phoenicopterus roseus), rosypelican (pelecamus onocrotalus), spotbill duck (anas poecilorhyncha), barheaded goose anser indices), and a number of waders can also be seen in the area. Wetland patches along the Indira Gandhi Canal also attract different migrating species. Northern Rajasthan also witnesses the migration of the endangered Siberian Cranes.

For nature photographers Khinchan is an ideal place for photography. Here with simple gadgets like a SLR with 200 mm zoom one can take excellent shots from close proximity. To capture the different moods of these beautiful birds one feels compelled to come here again and again.