SO there was no Yukta Mookhey, Diana Hayden or Priyanka Chopra for India this year. The Miss World 2001 crown has gone to Nigeria. And after Sushmita Sen and Lara Dutta, a Miss Universe is yet to emerge from the subcontinent.

But then, all is not lost in the business of beauty and style. Amidst all the confusion of an economic slowdown and conflicting signals of fashion trends, Indian designers have surprisingly been able to keep afloat and produce some extraordinary work this year.

Among the names being mentioned are Tarun Tahiliani and J.J. Vallaya among the veterans. Adding to the excitement are designers like Adarsh Gill, Varun Behl, Ashima and Leena Singh, Smriti Morarka, Shantanu-Nikhil and Anju Modi who hold great promise and are seen as trend-setters for the years to come.

Oddly enough, Tarun has maintained an unusually now profile throughout 2001, obviously letting his work speak for himself. A specialist in Indo-western chic, he came up with a glittering array of ensemble wear in solids with interesting pin tucks and shirts with prints and, of course, embroidery.

But what makes a Tarun Tahiliani design stand out is the inherent statement: "Dress up, but discreetly." So even as he works on western silhouettes, you can expect an element of sensuousness such as his over-the-top saree blouses and salwaar-kameez. His flowing aabha and kalidar kurtas have certainly added a new dimension to Indian haute coutre.

In contrast, Vallaya turned increasingly aggressive with his unending celebration of grandeur and gold, even if it were for a machine anglais piece of his pret line. There were sarees and dresses of zardozi on burnt gold as well, but all very innovative and in impeccable taste.

As Swarovski’s official ambassador this year, Vallaya used the stone extensively, both for his pret and coutre line. He presented collections that were a dazzling draw, mixing embroidery in gold with subtle diamond glitter. Then there were hot fix stones embellished in an asymmetrical spatter on crepe sarees. His kurtas were in ethereal pastel shades with full-embroidered panels in front to craft an ‘international look’.

Among the relative new comers, Behl made a spectacular splash with a whole range of short skirts and palazzos with bold embroidery. Clearly targeted at the youth, his lilac shirts with embroidered roses, pink kurtas with mesh-like designs in sequins and second skin bias skirts coupled with sheer shirts have also become a rage at parties.

In the same league is the designer duo, Shantanu-Nikhil, only that embroidery, colour and textures mean little here. The emphasis is on a "techno feel" with brocades cut into fitted pants, second skin halters, bright sarees with embossed leather blouses and extensive use of furs and geometrics for detailing. If Behl should be capturing the spirit of the new millennium, Shantanu-Nikhil would seem to have arrived ahead of time.

Then there is the merger of techno and tradition in which Anju Modi is creating waves with some subtle touches — a hint of zardozi on the collars of body-fitting jackets, soft colours on traditional weaves and the use of sequins on three-quarter pants and hip skirts.

Endorsing the practicality of upper-end synthetics, Modi also combined the shimmer of crinkled tissue with dual toned rayon tops as well as silk pashmina scarves with sequin detailing to create match-and-wear options for a generation that is rooted in tradition and yet, prefers the convenience of western wear.

On the same note, Ashima and Leena Singh came up with a mixed bag of classic black and turquoise ensembles of varying hemlines, embellished with bold tribal motifs in silver, gold, stone and aari work. Bright sarees with bold borders and jewel necklines, blouses with lace embroidery on the necks and aari-worked solid blue, and red kurtas were the main highlights of this year’s collections.

But then, for the real traditional look and feel, the choice would have to be between Smriti Morarka and Adarsh Gill. Without going retro or completely ethnic, both have successfully drawn upon the essence of Indian styling through colour, cut and subtle detailing. Check out Gill’s jewel-toned stretch velvet short kurtas or Morarka’s rich tanchois with paisley motifs...and you need look no further. (MF)