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Looking forward to
their past PAST, and times to come seem the best while all things in the present seen worst. This is how Shakespeare would have summed up the September 11-induced sickness pervading this planet. But my fondness for P.B. Shelley persuades me to propose: The world is weary of the past Oh, might it die or rest at last Swinging from the
spiritual to the temporal, back and forth, I’m on the horns of a
dilemma. Do I look forward to the future or ruminate over the past? Or
lament the present? Welcome to kingdom of Bhutan situated along the
southern slopes of the great Himalayan range. This is where I went
into retreat recently, far away from the bad mad world. Yes, far away
in time, though not in space. From New Alipurduar railway station we
drove through Hashimara and Jaigaon on the Indian side to enter
Phuentsholing — the gateway of Bhutan. Then the road winds north,
over the southern foothills, through lush green valleys and around the
rugged north-south ridges of the inner Himalayas, to the Central
Valleys of Thimphu and Paro. Hairpin bends on this breathtaking
seven-hour drive are, to reassure the traveller, marked with tall
colourful sculptures of the Tashi Tagye — the eight auspicious signs
of Buddhism. Tradition ordains the use of signs rather than the human
form as the Buddha had freed himself from the cycle of death and
birth! Fluttering flags which dot the landscape are believed to
communicate with the heaven. |
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Shorn of the scourge of class of caste, Bhutan boasts of a strongly egalitarian society. Men and women enjoy equal educational and social opportunities regardless of rank or birth, in all spheres of life including matrimony. This, I found amazing in a patriarchal society. Quite unlike us. The monarchy prides itself on promoting the gross national happiness rather than the gross national product. Bhutanese people are healthy and happy. I hardly encountered a sullen face. Commercial hoardings, advertisements and road signage were conspicuous by their absence. A visitor is struck by their penchant for anonymity. Residential buildings bore no nameplates. What really left me dumbfounded was their proud proclamation: "Our past is our present." And with everything official about it, that is, to assiduously safeguard their, heritage, religion, culture, tradition and ecology in its pristine form. Tourism, technology, development at all may take a back seat. Bhutan appears to cherish it and stay that way. Looking forward to their past! Driving downhill back home, the chauffeur pulled up at the immigration check post. My eyes got stuck at a signboard which roared, "You are now entering the malaria-prone zone. Protect yourself from the mosquitoes." Long live the king. |
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