Nose ornaments have staged a comeback

BODY piercing could be the current fad the world over. But in India, it is part of a centuries-old tradition. And when it comes to nose piercing, nobody even questions its social significance. Nose ornaments are regarded as much an expression of "being Indian" as of making a fashion statement.

Time was when the nose ring, or nath, was meant only for married women. In fact, the word nath is derived from the Hindi naath, meaning husband. As per tradition, no unmarried woman or widow was entitled to wear a nose ring.

But then, as with all things traditional, that was in the past. At any school or college function, wedding ceremony or religious festival, women of all ages can be seen with these nose dazzlers — some as small pieces with diamonds set in gold and others, as elaborate ensembles with pearls, rubies and emeralds.

"Nose ornaments had staged a comeback during the recent festival season in many parts of the country", elaborates Kruttika Desai, a Mumbai-based jewellery designer. "These are being worn to enhance a woman’s beauty — of course, regardless of her marital status."

In its most basic form, the nose ring is essentially a hoop of thin gold wire with a hook and an eye, strung with several precious stones or pearls. The stones are separated by a thin plate, either serrated or with scalloped edges, which is fixed transversely upon the wire that passes through the stones.

At a more elaborate level, the nath takes the shape of a latkan, with a small pendant hanging from the gold ring that passes through the nostril. The pendant sits strategically above the upper lip, as a suspended droplet, for optimal effect.

There is also the morni — a pendant shaped like a peacock with its feathers fanned out. The tail, fitted to the base of the nose ring, fans out just over the upper lip. Yet another variety is the besar — a circular, broad gold wire strung with pearls.

Observes Shilpi Magoo, another designer: "At a time when minimalism is the buzzword of fashion, nobody is going for elaborate or complicated pieces. A tiny ring, as sported by pop stars, is elegant enough. Better still, are the simple, diamond-studded pieces. In fact, the stud variety of nose ornaments is hot."

The most popular form of a nose stud these days is laung, as it takes its shape from the clove. It is either made of pure gold or studded with a single diamond (or pearl)and secured in place on the nose with the help of a tiny screw.

Another popular version is the phuli — a flower-shaped piece with its stalk passing through the nose and held by a gold screw inside the nostril. As in the case of laungs, the phuli could have a diamond or some semi-precious stone set in — or else, it could be in plain gold.

"Normally the nathand the stud are worn on either the right or the left nostril," informs Desai. "At times, both ornaments are worn in combination on a nostril. But the best part, especially in South India, is when women wear not one, but three ornaments — one each on the two nostrils and the third on the cartilage."

Actually, there is a name for the piece of jewellery worn on the cartilage — bulak. It is a very elaborate ornament, having a variety of stones and pearls, and is often so huge that they cover the lips. Women are required to hold them up with one hand as they eat with the other!

Then there are other heavier ornaments that come with either a thin gold chain or pearl string to support its weight. Since the chain is pinned to the hair, it takes the weight from the ornament and also helps in placing the ring on the cheek, instead of letting it dangle over the lips.

"Even as the cultural significance of a nose ornament is over-shadowed by considerations of aesthetics and style, it still makes an important social statement," says Desai.

Most Indian women cannot do without a nose ornament in their jewellery box. It has become so "essential" that even those scared to pierce their nose, are going in for them — only that they are opting for the clip-on varieties. (MF)