A view of the snow-capped Nanda Devi mountain range from Kausani

LOST in the Kumaon Himalayas, Kausani is tucked away atop a narrow hidden ridge at 1890 metres. Formerly called Valna, it is often referred to by the sobriquet ‘The Switzerland of India’, at least in most travel writings on Indian hill stations. And in the winter months, after a snowfall, the scenic splendour of Kausani justifies this comparison.

Kausani is one of the most beautiful and untouched retreats in the recently formed Uttaranchal. Situated 53 km north of Almora, covered by a thick canopy of pine forests, and dotted with pear orchards and tea gardens, Kausani welcomes a visitor with an intoxicating mix of fresh air, the aroma of the deciduous pines and the unassumingly friendly nature of its people. It is undoutedly one of the best places to view the snow-capped Nanda Devi ranges with the magnificent Mt Nanda Devi (7816m), the breathtaking Mt Trishul and the incredible Mt Nanda Ghunti (6307m) (the trident of Lord Shiva and the veil of his bride Nanda) forming the breathtaking canvas of the 300-km Himalayan range.

Nanda Devi is the patron Goddess of Gharwal and Kumaon and has influenced the culture of these twin mountain regions. The Nanda Devi peak, the second highest mountain in India, stands alone encircled by a vast ring of lesser peaks 70 miles in circumference. There are no peaks lower than 21,000 feet. Bill Tilman and Noel Odell were the first to climb the summit of Nanda Devi in 1936. Between Trishul and Nanda Ghunti lies the Ronti Saddle at 17,500 feet, the lowest point on the south sanctuary cirque. The outstanding Swiss mountaineer Andre Roche first climbed Nanda Ghunti in 1948.

The lively Gomti river adds to the beauty of the Kumaon hills

The other best place to view the Himalayan ranges is Gwaldam, 50 km further north of Kausani. A five-day trek ahead of Gwaldam from Mundoli will take you to the glacial lake of Roopkund, nestled in the lap of Mt Nanda Devi itself. Apart from the Roopkund trek, Gwaldam also doubles up as an ideal base for the popular trek to Pindari glacier.

Kausani is also the birthplace of the famous Hindi poet Sumitra Nandan Pant. His work Chidambara got him the Jnanpith Award in 1968. The building in which he spent his childhood has been converted into a museum. Anashakti Ashram, overlooking the Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) rest house, is the highest point in Kausani. Mohandas Gandhi spent a whole year in 1929 here, writing his commentary on the Bhagavadgita.

At present the ashram houses a museum and a research centre. The ashram has a huge courtyard with a small retreat hall. Visitors to Kausani throng the ashram just before dawn to catch a view of the breathtaking sunrise. The place also affords a majestic view of the setting sun. The KMVN rest house is easily one of the best spots to view of the Himalayan ranges. With just a few concrete structures, Kausani is ideal for a walk through the meadows or a trek through the forests to the stone temples of Baijnath or a dip in one of the nearby Kosi’s tributaries.

Kausani is often referred to as the Switzerland of India

Kausani is connected to towns like Almora, Ranikhet, and Bindsar in the south and Gwaldam and Bageshwar in the north. The 50-km drive from Almora to Kausani carries you along one of the most beautiful valleys as the road winds to Kosi. A 30-minute drive down the meandering road brings you to the temple complex of Baijnath. Situated alongside River Gomti at an altitude of 1234 metres, the stone temple complex has stunning simplicity about it. Looked after by the Archaeological Survey of India, the temple is perched on the flat Garur valley of Katyur. The temple complex was built by the Katyur kings and legends has it that the entire complex was built overnight. Huge structures of this small temple complex built of huge stone slabs seem to lend credence to this legend.

Further down the Gomti is the town of Bageshwar. Situated 50 km north of Kausani, this town is not particularly beautiful but has the features of all river towns in the Kumaon hills. Bageshwar is at the confluence of the Gomti and the Saryu. A few temples overlook the confluence of the rivers. The Baghnath temple has an amalaka (ribbed circular crown) capped with an umbrella-like roof made of wood and slate. The numerous bells one sees within the temple complex are offering from devotees, as is the case in most Kumauni temples.

According to a popular legend, Bageshwar was built here in the shadows of Mount Nila, the home of gods, sandhus, gandharvas and apsaras, by a certain Chandisa for his master Shiva. When Shiva and Parvati arrived at the confluence they were welcomed by an akashvani (celestial song); hence the place was named Vagiswar (the lord of eloquent speech).

A small bridge over the confluence is a major landmark in Bageshwar. Grocery and vegetable shops fill the narrow lanes on one side of the bridge. A football ground dots the landscape on the left hand side of the road that leads to Gwaldam.

The cool air was a luxury in the afternoon sun. As the road climbed to Kausani, the Gomti shimmered and flowed quietly like a river of gold. The sun played hide and seek in the mountains as the climb became steeper near Kausani. The Anasakthi Ashram provided an ideal vantage point to see a perfect sunset as the distant western sky became a splash of amber. The Himalayan ranges forming a panoramic silhouette against the backdrop of the fading light looked beautiful.