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Sunday
, March 31, 2002
Books

Bemused Down Under
Deepika Gurdev

Down Under in a Sunburned Country
by Bill Bryson. 2001. Price $15. Pages 335

Down Under in a Sunburned CountryI haven’t stopped laughing! Its Bryson back again with a vengeance. His incomparable humour and unmatched style never comprising on his wonderful insights.

For those Bryson fans who ended the tour de Bill with A Walk in the Woods, In a Sunburned Country takes off where that Appalachian amble ended. With it, Bryson once again establishes himself as a travel writer a humorist, naturalist and historian par excellence.

Bryson, who has the ability of making just about everything compelling reading, outdoes himself here. When he isn’t dodging Portuguese man-of-wars or considering the virtues of the remarkable platypus, he visits southwest Gippsland, home of the world’s largest earthworms (up to 12 feet in length!).

He discovers Australia, which began nationhood as a prison, contains the longest straight stretch of railroad track in the world (297 miles), as well as the world’s largest monolith (the majestic Uluru) and largest living thing (the Great Barrier Reef). He finds ridiculous place names: "Mullumbimby Ewylamartup, Jiggalong, and the supremely satisfying Tittybong."

 


It is as one would expect the story of his exploits in Australia, where
A-bombs go off unnoticed, prime ministers disappear into the surf (just as Bryson himself did in the surfing experience he got caught in), happy folks ho never forget to greet absolute strangers ‘Hey Mate’. They co-exist with some of the world’s deadliest creatures. And they’re cool about it. In Bryson’s book there are toxic caterpillars, aggressive seashells, crocodiles, sharks, snakes and the dreaded box jellyfish.

If you think that’s scary, hang on, its just the beginning. Bryson’s treks will take you through sunbaked deserts, up endless coastlines, crisscrossing the "under-discovered" Down Under in search of all things interesting.

For all you cricket lovers, you can even catch a cricket game on the radio. Which, in Bryson’s words, is like listening to two men sitting in a rowboat on a large, placid lake on a day when the fish aren’t biting; it’s like having a nap without losing consciousness. It actually helps not to know quite what’s going on. In such a rarefied world of contentment and inactivity, comprehension would become a distraction.

Sample this for instance: "Neasden, it appeared, was turning in a solid performance at square bowel, while Packet had been a stalwart in the dribbles, though even these exemplary performances paled when set aside the outstanding play of young Hugo Twain-Buttocks at middle nipple. The commentators were in calm agreement that they had not seen anyone caught behind with such panache since Tandoori took Rogan Josh for a stiffy at Vindaloo in ’61."

You get the drift. In Australia, Bill Bryson has an intrinsically fascinating subject: spaces extreme in their vastness, primeval landscapes and improbable creatures. His travelogue is sprinkled with history and contemporary culture notes, all of which are inevitably amusing.

It’s hard to see how anyone could not share his delight in monotremes and stromatolites or cringe just a little when he discovered that he had drunkenly agreed to a house swap.

Whether he is taking you along as he crosses the great outback, daring death at every turn, or just kicking back for a beer or two (or three, or four or more.....) in homey Australian pubs he manages to portray a sense of what it s really like, just to make sure you are absolutely crazy if you want to gothere. He takes you to some of Australia’s most ignored wonders, like a tree walk, a 100ft high board walk, among some of the tallest, most magnificent trees in Australia. He brings you to a colony of stromatolites, the first living organism on earth, the largest of three known surviving colonies.

Whether Bryson’s floundering in the water off the Great Barrier Reef or boogie boarding in a swarm of poisonous jellyfish he brings together the most exciting and the most mundane parts of life down under for all to see and share. Australia may be "mostly empty and a long way away," but with Bryson’s latest offering it’s isn’t quite Down Under. Read it even if you have a mild interest in geography, you’re bound to entertained, enlightened and eager to get there. "You see," Bryson observes, "Australia is an interesting place. It truly is. And that really is all I’m saying."