TRAVEL
Oasis of calm, islands of tranquillity
There is more to Hong Kong than the glitter of urban life, says Manpreet Singh as he describes the leisurely and idyllic life of the outlying islands.

THE image you have of Hong Kong is one of a glittering metropolis, an urban jungle replete with sky-touching buildings, swanky shopping malls and swarming crowds, The other side to these islands is the walk on lush green islands, secluded beaches and lonely mountainous trails where once pirates and pre-historic man lived.

"In the outlying islands you breathe fresh air and experience an ancient culture original to the islands. Hong Kong city is a big shopping mall," says Chang Pao Yueh, a Chinese lady. Not many know that Hong Kong is not just a busy and congested city alone but comprises over 200 islands, dotting the South China sea. In these islands, you find a typically Chinese rural life, that is at once touching and inspiring.

EARLIER COLUMNS Haven in the Palni hills Partha S. Banerjee November 30, 2003 Welcome to Hollywood terrain! Nirmal Datta November 23, 2003 Time and history stand still in Mrs Braganza’s house Rajbir Deswal November 16, 2003 River, springs and a green carpet welcome in Vajreshwari Abhilash Gaur November 2, 2003 Lakes, waterfalls and orchids in abode of clouds Peeyush Agnihotri October 19, 2003 A paradise called Atlantis Mohinder Singh October 12, 2003 Growing vegetables in a sea fort Abhilash Gaur October 5, 2003 A city of bulging domes Arun Gaur September 28, 2003 The timeless temple of Ambarnath Abhilash Gaur September 21, 2003 Worshipping Durga in Goa Ervell E. Menezes September 14, 2003 Missing history for the woods in Bassein Abhilash Gaur September 7, 2003

Once you have experienced the hectic lifestyle of urban Hong Kong, just board a ferry to one of these islands of tranquillity and see the world change. It is soothing both for your eyes as well as your soul. "Some of the these islands have a population you can count on the fingers of your one hand. But you can reach them only on a private boat," informs your guide. Surprising! True, a few of these islands are uninhabited and are known as the "ghost islands".

Hong Kong city has lured many of these islands' inhabitants but the indigenous lifestyle has endured in the form of fishing communities and the "boat people". And, except for the Lantau Island, cars are not allowed on them. The islands are easily accessible by inexpensive public transport ferries and deserving your visit are Lamma, Lantau and Cheung Chau. All these can be reached within an hour's ferry ride from Hong Kong. These ferry rides open a window to very absorbing harbour-life scenes.

If you happen to touch Hong Kong, Lamma is one "not-to-be-missed" island. It is nicknamed "Stone Age Island." The archaeologists believe the place had the oldest settlements in all of the Southern China. Today, this third largest of the outlying islands, Lamma is home to a large number of expatriates.

The best way to explore Lamma is to walk between the main village Yung Shue Wan to the village Sok Kwu Wan. This across-the-island trail serves as a link to ferries at each end. A gentle trek here offers you an intimate view of the life of Chinese fishers, farmers, besides spectacular mountain scenes. 

You may end your trek with excellent seafood at Sok Kwu Wan, for which the place is popular. At Yung Shue Wan too there are a number of good seafood continental restaurants and pubs. One should not forget to visit the Indian Spicy Island restaurant, if your tastebuds yearn for curry or other Indian dishes—from chaat to dosas. Other interesting places to see in Lamma are the Hing Shing Ye Beach, a long, beautiful and clean beach with a shark net and the Tin Hau Temple, dedicated to Tin Hau, the popular Chinese goddess of the sea.

The next island worth visiting after Lamma is Lantau. It may come as a surprise that Lantau is twice the size of Hong Kong city. While Hong Kong's population is over 6 million, Lantau’s is merely nearabout 50, 000.

The island is quiet and serene. Both Buddhist and Christian monasteries fit in the peaceful ambience of Lantau. The Po Ling monastery here has the world's largest seated outdoor bronze Buddha, set on a plateau overlooking the Islands' spectacular mountains. This Buddha statue is 34 metres high. It was shipped in pieces from far away China in 1993 and it took over a decade to build it.

Lantau is also a good place for adventurous spirits. It has plenty of mountain hikes, along well-marked paths. The winding pathways and trails are surrounded by serene mountains and slices of Chinese rural life. Here you may also like to climb the 934-metre-high Lantau peak. The peak offers excellent views on a clear day. At Lantau you can still see the fast disappearing "boat people" whose generations have been living in boats. And a visit to the fishing village of Tai O will reveal to you the charms of a street life that has changed little over the decades.

But the dumb-bell shaped Cheung Chau, is famous than all the other islands for still clinging close to the traditional fishing village lifestyle. Located just in an area less than three square kilometres it has an endlessly fascinating ambience. You can cover the whole island on foot in a few minutes, favouring the narrow alleys and Chinese tradition.

Cheung Chau used to be a favourite haunt of a notorious pirate, Cheung Po Chai, whose tiny hiding cave you can still visit there. Pirates have gone but fishing remains and you can see at the Cheung Chau's curving little harbour the boat people living in junks. Archaeologists say that like Lamma and Lantau, Cheung Chau too was inhabited in the pre-historic times. Cheung Chau island is famous for its annual Bun Festival.

Legend has it that many years ago after the inhabitants found a nest of skeleton (most probably of those killed by the pirates) the island was plagued by calamities. The festival is now held to placate the restless spirits of those killed by the pirates. During the festival bamboo towers covered with edible buns are erected and dismantled. And the buns are distributed to the bystanders for bringing good luck for the whole coming year.

The only point you have to beware of about these islands is to avoid visiting them on the weekends, when half of the Hong Kong's population pays a ritualistic visit here to have some moments of respite or to "get-away- from- it- all" of the Hong Kong hectic city's life.