FASHION 
Subdued colours are hot this season
Saloni Kaul

Everybody wears salwar kameezes. Some love sarees. And those with a fine figure and attitude, can carry hipsters and tops with confidence. These essentially constitute the staple on which the fashion industry in India thrives today.

The challenge, however, lies in being with the times, looking trendy and, yet, standing out in a crowd. That is what separates a follower from a leader. It requires oodles of pizazz, a balance of vitality and glamour and, above all, the courage to be different.

Very often, a simple scarf or a broad belt can do the trick. Some designers recommend a cap — leather, embroidered, plain or even studded with Swarovski crystals. In fact, berets (in black and off-white) are back in fashion and are being teamed with slinky T-shirts and minis for a femme fatale look.

"These are a must for every wardrobe," declares Rina Dhaka, best known for her funky designer belts, which have leather at the front fused with printed silk lining at the back. "Little touches here and there contribute hugely to projecting a personal style."

But first things first. Everywhere, warm subdued colours may be a rage — the most popular being brown, beige, cream, off-white, ivory, honey and butterscotch interspersed with spots of gold, silver and gray. One safe way to get off the beaten track is to try out nude
shades in all its combinations.

Still better, is to get into flesh tones. As Lina Tipnis advises, acid pink and lime can be used as highlights with turquoise, mauve, sapphire, fuchsia, slate, sage and khaki. "Even black can be used with hints of oxblood and pewter," she recommends.

"As silver is on its way out, we are likely to see an abundance of matte gold and dull copper with an antique finish, both in terms of embroidery and colour of the fabric," predicts designer duo Shantanu-Nikhil. "Metal on a muted colour palette has set the tone for a luxurious Fall."

Related to colour are the prints where options can range from digitally printed jewelled T-shirts bearing opulent Mughal motifs to interesting newspaper headlines (like "India Can Do It") in black, white and ecru, calligraphed scripts and religious motifs.

Manish Arora has come up with a kitschy collection of cartoon prints with catch lines like Fish Fry, Jab Hum Jawan Honge and Jaane Kahan Honge in zesty, fluorescent colours, while, at the other extreme, there’s Aki Narula who makes innovative use of the printed kalamkari fabric on fitted trousers, wrap skirts and trench coats.

Patchwork too is making a lasting impression as seen in Lina Tipnis’s urban bohemian line and on Priyadarshini Rao’s yoked patchwork dresses with drawstring necklines, crinkled over-shirts and antique lightweight velvet tunics. (MF)