Food Talk
 The dark beauty

The slow cooking of Rasa ensures that the vital juices are efficiently extracted from the lentils,
says Pushpesh Pant

MUCH before the Anglo-Americans had made popular the phrase "Black is Beautiful", the denizens of Kumaon, particularly the residents of Almora, now part of Uttaranchal, had come to realise that black is not only beautiful but healthier also. Rasa, the dark beauty, a.k.a. thatwani, was ritually consumed on Sundays and prescribed for its exceptional tonic properties.

CHEF’S CORNER

Ingredients

Soya beans (black/locally called bhatt) 100 gm
French beans(Rajmah chitral) 100 gm
Rajmah 100 gm
Black urad daal (unhusked) 100 gm
Bengal gram (channa, unhusked) 100 gm
 Kulthi dal 50 gm
 Lobiya dal 50 gm
Dhania powder 2 tbsp
Zeera powder 2 tbsp
Salt to taste

Tempering

Desi ghee 1tbsp
A generous pinch of jambu (Himalyan chives, if not available stay with 2 whole red chillies paired with 4-5 cloves of garlic)
A large sprig of fresh coriander for garnish

Method

Clean and wash the lentils well and soak overnight in water. Drain and cook in a pressure cooker in enough water for about 30 minutes. Let it cool naturally before opening to release the pressure. Mash a little with a spatula employing a gentle touch. Transfer to a cast iron karahi — no other type can be used. Cook on low medium heat for about two hours after adding the spice powders and the salt. Traditional recipe does not allow the use of the pressure cooker but remember it was refined in pre-pressure cooker days. Remove the lentil grains from the soup. (These may be utilised as a healthy snack after garnishing with chopped green chillies, thin strips of ginger and enhanced with a dash of lemon). Ideally, the rasa should have a thick consistency and a creamy texture. Heat the ghee, add the jambu (or garlic cloves and whole red chillies) and when the jambu releases its aroma or the garlic cloves turn dark brown or the chillies begin to change colour, pour over the rasa. Garnish with freshly chopped coriander and enjoy with rice.

The long slow cooking process provided a welcome opportunity to sit around the chulha and gossip pleasantly as the rasa simmered along its way. There are not many delicacies that have so dark a hue but then we Indians are an almost pathologically colour conscious people and, at least in the North, partial to fair skin. Be that as it may, this sub-regional specialty has much to commend it. It is rich in vegetable proteins, tastes good and enriched with the iron it imbibes from the karahi.

A different dish called chutkani is also cooked more often in this region using just black soya beans but is believed to be far less nutritious.

The word rasa and that is what this dish is called literally translates as essence, juice, sap. The same word in the realm of arts and literature encompasses aesthetic enjoyment. Together with yoga, it underpins the Indian experience.

The slow cooking ensures that the vital juices are efficiently extracted from the lentils and once you acquire the taste, you will be restless to pass the addiction on. Don’t let the unavailability of jambu be deterrence; experimentation with your favourite dried herbs can’t hurt the rasa. Rasa can be served as an unusual soup also.

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