Fabric with loads of attitude

Khadi keeps you cool ’n’ chic in summer and warm ’n’ colourful in winter. It is a fabric that fashion divas and celebrities swear by, finds Ritusmita Biswas

This versatile fabric is best suited for Indian climate

It is the ideal fabric to go trendy with. Even in western wear, khadi manages to create a look that is contemporary yet thoroughly Indian. In fact, its easy adaptability to a range of designs makes it amenable to both formal and informal wear, as well as Indian and western styles.

Options available in khadi are no longer limited to kurtas, topis and sarees. They range from khadi jackets, skirts, dupattas, cropped tops, capris, trousers, wrap-arounds, spaghetti tops, trousers, you name it. No wonder khadi has stolen the hearts of millions of fashion conscious people across the country today. Says noted Bengali actress June Malia, "Khadi helps you achieve a style quotient of your own. Being fashionable for me is carrying yourself with `E9lan and khadi allows you to do the same."

Agrees model Dipti Gujral, "I personally like cotton and cotton blends because that goes with our climatic condition. Bengal’s taant sarees have always been my favourite. And as far as khadi is concerned, it is my all-time favourite fabric. It is not boring and mundane at all. With the new trends catching up, khadi is very much a designer wear."

Simone Tata, proprietor of West Side and Lakme Company and who is considered to be among the most fashion conscious ladies of the country, says: "Khadi is a wonderful fabric. It is among my all-time favourites and I feel it is especially suited for tropical Indian climate where cotton clothes are a must."

Designer Preeti Jhawar points out that khadi is among the best-suited fabrics for the Indian climate. "The best part about the fabric is that it is versatile and you can work on it so much. Gone are the days when khadi came in monochromatic and dull colours, today the fabric dons myriad colours and is used abundantly in both traditional and western wear."

In fact, it has become a must-have in the wardrobe of fashion divas. At one time coarse and dull, khadi’s latest avatar is brightly coloured and in gossamer fine texture. While designers are all praise for the versatility of the fabric, wearers swear by its practicality and comfort. Not only is khadi the perfect thing to wear for the hot and humid Indian summers but it also serves as an ideal fabric for chilly winter.

Khadi is ideal for western and traditional wear. — Photo by Manoj Mahajan

This heritage fabric has a long and illustrious history associated with Freedom Movement. Ritu Kumar writes in her book, Costumes and Textiles of Royal India, "A century of colonial rule rang a death knell for traditionally produced Indian fabrics, which almost went extinct." However, with Gandhiji’s call for swadeshi there began an era of revival of the rich textile heritage that the country once possessed. This rich heritage had been almost wiped out by colonial rulers, who systematically replaced Indian handicrafts with cheap imitations made in the mills of Birmingham.

Khadi thus became the symbol of Independence in 1920. The swadeshi movement called for a mass boycott of all imported fabrics. Khadi kurta over khadi dhoti or pyjamas and khadi sarees for women became the order of the day for every patriotic Indian. This increased focus on traditional fabrics helped the revival of the legacy of textile within two decades of Independence.

The unfortunate part is that even years after Independence, khadi was just associated with a typical fusty image, something that only politicians and jholawalas wore. But not any more. Today khadi has acquired a new style quotient and can rightfully be called a fabric with an attitude.

Of late almost every leading designer like Rohit Bal, Jatin Kochchar, Malini Ramani and others have used it. Gone are the days when you just had the Khadi Gramodyog Bhawan to buy khadi. Upmarket brands like Fabindia, Khaddar, etc. have given to the traditional handspun fabric a modern, sleek and contemporary look.

Says designer Agnimitra Paul, "The traditional look is now in and khadi allows you to create that look with ease. If worn with proper accessories and if carried with grace it helps the wearer make a distinct fashion statement."

Designer Sayantan Sarkar feels that it is the "right" material for "Indo- western clothes. Its ethnic quotient adds that needed touch to western wear."

The benefits of the fabric cannot be overestimated. For one it is cool, comfortable and an environmentally friendly fabric. Besides khadi is 100 per cent natural. So next time you want to beat the sultry months in style, go shopping for khadi. — TWF

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