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A
cloud-dappled sky, coconut trees swaying in the early morning sky and
an invigorating earthy smell of rain and water greeted us as we got
down from the train at Alleppey (or Alappuzha as it is now known)
railway station. Met by a representative from Lake Palace resort, we
set off to the private jetty after passing solidly built buildings in
white with the trademark wavy burnt brick-coloured tiles.
Immediately after boarding the boat for the resort situated on the
edge of the Vembanad Lake, we navigated a few canals and entered an
expanse of water setting sight on ‘the Venice of the East.’ I have
never been to Venice but what I have gathered from films and stills is
that one has to navigate a network of canals to reach chosen spots in
the city. Alleppey is a little like this but offers a different
experience. The town has the Arabian sea on its West and is
criss-crossed by an intricate network of lakes, lagoons and fresh
water bodies. Known for its coir industry earlier, it has risen into
prominence now due to the backwater experience it offers. There are no
inspiring monuments or marvels of architecture like Venice. It only
has few star hotels unlike its cousin Kumarakom situated 90 km away on
the same lake. Only here will you find a plethora or canals and
sub-canals giving you an opportunity to witness rural life and
experience lush greenery as well as have plush houseboats to take you
around. At Alleppey life revolves around water. The Vembanad Lake, a
vast sheet of water, is the centre of existence for residents of this
paradise. The lake and its canals provide the town its USP, houseboat
tourism. These houseboats are a replica of the old kettuvalloms or
rice barges used for transporting materials from one place to another.
Nowadays traders and entrepreneurs use bamboo and jute and modern
construction material like tiles to make the popular floating house.
Replete with a bathroom and a sitting area upfront, the kettuvalloms
are an ideal way to explore the backwaters. The houseboats are
available for rent at the jetty in Alleppey, which houses the most
varied sections in Kerala. They are rented out for charges between Rs
3,000 to Rs 5,000 per night. It is preferable to see the boat, haggle
and finalise the deal rather than booking in advance as there is a
large difference in the quality of old and new boats. Most of the
boats are motorised and take you to various corners of the Vembanad
lake from where you can watch the sun set in a distant horizon. One
can also have a view of the activities around, including rice farming
below water level and coir making. One can also party through the
night. Besides houseboats, the snake boats of Alleppey are a great
attraction. It is difficult for most tourists to attend the annual
Nehru Trophy boat race held in August as winter is the high season in
this area. We however were lucky to witness a snake race courtesy the
World Travel Mart organised by the Kerala government. As our resort
was hosting the travel industry members, we were taken out to the
Vembanad lake for the snake boat experience. We moved in a motor boat
along the snake boats witnessing how the men get into the rhythm of
the race, how the beat is set to perfection and how the boat is
steered. After nearly 20 minutes of this, we thought the exhibition
race was over but it was not. We were taken to a viewing stand along
the river after which the real race began. Lasting around five
minutes, we saw the teams stage a ballad of perfect poise and strength
to take the most out of the water and their boats. The paddlers got
our mineral water bottles at the end of the race to quench their
thirst, we got to sit in their boats and wonder how a man could paddle
so strenuously with one buttock on the boat and the other in
limbo. Setting off from Alleppey, one knew it would be some time
before one felt so much at peace, floating without a care in the world
towards a distant horizon.
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