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It may be the age of the stylus, there is still nothing to beat the pleasure—or style—of putting pen to paper, says Roopinder Singh
Handbag Haven
bling it on
PACESETTER Noor Sandhu
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It may be the age of the stylus, there is still nothing to beat the pleasure—or style—of putting pen to paper, says Roopinder Singh
Chaos. That’s the name of the pen which has been co-designed by Sylvester Stallone. “The pen is mightier than the sword,” as the old saying goes, and here we have it, after wielding the sword and other assorted weapons on the silver screen, the action hero is now associating his name with a new line of pens. No ordinary pens these. They are limited edition writing instruments made by the Italian company, Montegrappa Pens. “The Chaos Limited Edition honours the style and panache of the action-packed Sylvester Stallone while possessing the balance of elegance and function of a luxury fountain pen. One thousand of the pens will be made of silver and start at $4,965 with 10 fountain and 10 roller pens being crafted of 18-karat gold with precious stones,” says the company. Now, it turns out that Stallone is a pen aficionado. What he says, and how he does so, is rather extensively documented on celluloid, yet he yearns to put what he has to say on paper, to write it down. We must remember that language is the vehicle of thought. The written word solidifies that expression, it gives it a degree of authority and permanence — you write so that what you say can reach a wider audience. When you write you are aware that what you pen down will outlast what you say. Man’s attempt to convert what was only verbal to something more permanent, to leave the mark of his thoughts through writing, goes back in time. It started by sharpening a reed, dipping it into a dye, and using it on a banana leaf. We still find copies of the Rig Veda in this form, preserved since centuries. Limited Edition pens are quite a rage among the rich and the powerful. They transcend their functional aspects to become items of jewellery, and indeed, many are just that — finely crafted pieces encrusted with precious metals and jewels. Just look at the Tibaldi's Brookland that commemorates Bentley's history; Caran d'Ache Horlogerie, with its 850 diamonds; or Montblanc's solid gold Diego Rivera series. Limited eidition pens are are often named after iconic figures, like Ivanhoe, Princess Grace, John Lennon, or even Mahatama Gandhi. Montblanc’s Mahatma Gandhi limited edition pen was launched in October 2009 and its design sought to pay tribute to Mahatma Gandhi’s life and achievements. As the description says: “The top of the cap and cone are inspired by the spindle which Gandhi used to spin cotton — one of the symbols of Indian Independence. The colour white is a reference to truth and peace, while the Mandarin garnet represents the orange colour that is part of the Indian flag. The nib shows an image of Mahatma Gandhi, walking with a stick. In addition, the limitation of the Mahatma Gandhi Limited Edition 3000 is symbolic for the masses of people who followed him during his fight for independence.” Nice thought, indeed, except for the fact that the pen got into some political trouble when people objected to the high price of this “925 sterling silver with fine textile structure on lacquered cap and barrel,” writing instrument. Many could not reconcile the Mahatama and his simplicity with the expensive pen (Rs 14 lakh or so) that sought to pay tribute to one of the greatest leaders of the world. As for Gandhi, he himself used simple pens, and in fact even the quill, which is a reed, shaped with a pen-knife, dipped in an inkwell, or its modified version that uses a nib that is affixed on a wooden handle and dipped into an inkwell. Talking of ink, it is ink that allows the pen to leave an indelible impression. Ink is basically a dye, which may have colour pigments in it. So important was ink to writing that there are many examples of ancient scriptures that have an extra folio on which the technique of ink-making is described. In spite of a long tradition of using pens and ink, the production of fountain pens in India is largely confined to those used by the masses, like the Camlin, Wilson and even Chelpark. There were also Chinese pens like Hero which was a knockoff of Parker. Expensive pens were the imported ones. A century ago, the real coming of age pen for most people was a Parker. Shafer was also popular, and these were pens which were gifted to rare students who graduated, or bought by people who could afford them. At the sidelines was a tradition of custom-made pens from manufacturers like Rajahmundry from Andhra Pradesh, which, inspired by the Swadeshi movement of Mahatama Gandhi, made pens that would not be imported. His descendants and some relatives continue to do so till today. Even though the fountain pen was eclipsed in numbers by new kinds of pens (see box), it has made a comeback as a luxury good. Made with exotic materials and in limited editions, fountain pens can cost a bundle, and have found an eager audience among discerning customers. Today it is the Montblanc or a Caran d’Ache, that’s a coming of age gift for the corporate set. Much of the written word has come to us through pens of various kinds. They become the vehicle for recording our thoughts. The sensuous gliding of the nib over paper, the mark left by the ink that this nib sensuously touches, the feel of the nib on paper, these are now elusive pleasures that we deny to ourselves even as we surrender to the immediacy of access and the convenience of tapping on keyboards. The pleasure of stealing away time from a keyboard and allowing ourselves to step back and use a pen becomes even more precious in a world dominated by tablets, smart phones and computers. Yes we can. Some of us do so, and those who can afford it, indulge themselves with limited edition versions made by the top pen-makers of the world.
Of fountains & rollerballs
The fountain pen, as we know it, evolved in time, and in many places. Developments in the UK, in France and in the US, along with the improvement of inks used by such pens led to reliable pens. Among those who made significant contribution were Josiah Mason of Birmingham, England, who improved the nibs, Petrache Poenaru the Romanian who patented the replaceable ink cartridge on May 25, 1827, Alonzo T. Cross of USA, A. A. Waterman, Walter A. Sheaffer, and George Safford Parker. That we still identify these names with pens speaks of their lasting impact, and of their business acumen. It took an impatient man, unhappy with the smudging and problems in refilling fountain pens to develop the first popular ball point pen. Now a ball point pen, as the name indicates has a small ball that picks up ink from the barrel and deposits it on paper as it rotates. It was a Hungarian newspaper editor Laszlo Biro, who got the idea of using a viscous ink like the one used for printing newspapers so that it would dry easily. His brother George was a chemist and together they produced a pen for which they sought a British patent on June 15, 1938. The ball pen is functional, and in time has virtually replaced the fountain pen as a mass market product. It is so inexpensively that often ballpoint pens are thought of as disposable products. The ink they use is oil-based, unlike fountain pens. Rollerball pens have evolved in time, and they require less pressure than ball pens to write because of mechanical improvements as well as using water-based inks, either liquid or jelly. As a rule, the expensive brands have started offering their customers rollerball pens rather than ball pens.
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Handbag Haven However, the impeccably dressed and status-conscious Indian women of today are moving away from plain handbags. “India is one of the largest market for accessories in Asia. It is fast becoming a resource for revenue in the luxury and premium market category globally,” informs Abhinav Kumar, CEO Brand Concepts, a premier online resource for licensed fashion handbags by brands like Rocky S, High 5, Back to School and Coco — luxe handbags by socialite and hotel heiress Paris Hilton in India. Owning an Louis Vuitton (LV) handbag, Fendi tote or a Prada satchel is a dream come true for every woman, who is a label freak. Carrie Bradshaw nailed it when she said “It’s just a little bag, but we feel nothing without it in public.”
There are quite a few international, fashion powerhouses that synonymy sheer class. Handbags from their staple are ideally meant for celebrities, royalty and the affluent, upper-crust of the society with a discriminating taste. Most of these companies are being run by family since their inception, which explains extreme dedication to quality and luxury. To fashion insiders, these designer handbags are as recognisable as a Picasso painting is to an art lover. And with most of these arm candies available in India, we now have an entire range of international big-wigs to choose from. From the legendary LV monogram and the iconic Hermes Birkin to the authentic Chanel and a heavily detailed Gucci or Burberry, the world’s most famous brands now have stores and online presence in India. Due to the prestige attached to these brands, their bags come with a very high cost and the resale and replica market is huge. Like the real Louis Vuitton (LV) purses sell for between several hundred and several thousand dollars, and the fake ones cost about 90 per cent less. No wonder, that this brand is so commonly counterfeited. In fact, counterfeiting is such a huge problem for the LV brand, it is estimated that almost 99 per cent of the so-called LV purses currently owned by people around the world are not authentic. Compared to other high-end brands, LV items make up almost 20 per cent of all imitation purses manufactured around the world each year. More importantly, one needs to be aware of the defining characteristics and logos of each of these high-end handbags to ensure genuineness. For example, an authentic Chanel bag is accompanied by an identity card which guarantees that your bag is a genuine Chanel product. The card contains a number that will be written on the inside of the product. To spot a genuine Fendi, the two F’s that face each other, one upside-down, is one of the most obvious features, (whether it’s a full pattern on the purse or just a metal accent on the front). An authentic Louis Vuitton handbag comes with a dust cover and an authenticity card. Also, the LV monogram will be symmetrical. Moreover, handbags by all these high-end brands flaunt top-notch quality, be it stitching, finishing or craftsmanship. And, if you are looking for the limited edition versions of these bags, you will have to brave a multi-year waiting lis! There are bags by Indian design houses and designers that have made their way into the domestic market. There’s home-grown leather goods firm Hidesign. Spearheaded by president and founder Dilip Kapur, it has become a truly saleable brand with global reach. Besides, there’s a growing breed of young accessory Indian designers, exclusively dealing in handbags. Indian handbag designer Meera Mahadevia has launched her couture collection of handbags, which is inspired by the big-fat-Indian wedding. Her clientele includes the who’s who of Bollywood . Mahadevia’s pouches and party clutches use the rich, jewel tones and semi-precious stones like emeralds and rubies. Even the techniques she uses (wood carving, theva work, inlay, engraving and halkari work) bespeak the glory of Indian art and craft. The USP of her line, she believes, is that all her designs are handcrafted by Indian artisans. “Every piece in this collection exudes the charm and resplendence of the royal past. It celebrates the contemporary Indian woman, who remains attached to her Indian roots,” says Mahadevia. In 2010, Bangalore-based Rachana Reddy recently floated “Lotus Sutra”, her artistically evocative collection of bespoke clutches, handcrafted by local artisans. This line predominantly consists of wooden, leather and silk clutches, with traditional accents such as lotus, paisley and jali work etched and carved into them delicately and filled in with luxurious fabrics. “Every clutch from my line comes with a detachable chain/leather handle, so they can be converted into small bags,” says the designer, who also retails in Chennai and Delhi. The Indian designer accessories scene was nascent five years ago, with just a handful of accessory designers. But today, the growth of designer handbags has been at a very encouraging rate of 20-25 per cent. Which is why, home-grown companies like Brand Concepts and Lavie are targeting tier-1 and tier-2 cities, apart from the metros. “We are targeting the tier-1, tier-2 cities in the first phase. The tier-2 cities have huge potential. People there too have budgets to spend on luxury products, but do not have enough windows to do so. All we are doing is giving them an opportunity to do so,” signs off Abhinav Kumar – CEO Brand Concepts.
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bling it on
CATWALK FOR DOGS Price: Ranges from $110 to $1,200
(Rs 5,500 to Rs 60,000)
AND THE OSCAR GOES TO… Price: 15 Oscar statues auctioned for $3 million (Around
Rs 15 crore)
A TOAST TO CHAMPAGNE Price: $16,000 per set of two bottles (Around
Rs 8 lakh)
VALET SERVICE Price: $225
(Around Rs 11,250)
SINGLED OUT Price: Likely to fetch around $30,000 (Around
Rs 15 lakh)
PICTURE THIS! Price: $625,000 (Around
Rs 3.125 crore)
GRAND EMPEROR OF CHOCLATES Price : $5,900 per kg
(Rs 2.95 lakh a kg)
FOR VIEWING PLEASURE Price: $5,00,000 (Around
Rs 2.5 crore)
THESE shoes ARE MADE FOR DRIVING Price: Yet to be announced
LITHOPHANE VOTIVE LIGHT-BUDDHA Price:
Rs 5,500
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Known for her high-impact, surreal self-portraits, Amritsar girl Noor Sandhu is the youngest self-portrait artist in India
Portrait of an artist as a young woman Anandita Gupta
Self
portraiture is a challenging arena because nobody assists you in executing your vision. You are the person behind the idea, the person behind the camera and the person in front of the camera. At 27, Amritsar girl Noor Sandhu has accomplished this quite well, becoming India's youngest self-portrait artist. Sandhu's first public showing, held at the Government College and Arts Gallery, Chandigarh in 2010, showcased black and white, self clicked, conceptual portraits of herself, accompanied by her poetry. The photographs depicted solitude, observation and reflection- stages that a young woman goes through. "Self-portraiture is quite frustrating during times when I am unable to get the results right. However, the learning process is amazing. I love this medium as it teaches me things, make me doubt, surprises me over and over and has many facets," beams the young artist, speaking about her all-consuming passion. Noor's passion for self portraiture photography blossomed quite surprisingly 'out of the blue'. Presently working as the HOD, Performing Arts Department at the Spring Dale School, Amritsar, Sandhu began her career as a journalist but moved on to photography in 2007. "I had been dabbling in photography, poetry and story-writing since childhood. After finishing my graduation from the Guru Nanak Dev University Amritsar, I went on to pursue my Masters in Mass Communication from PU, Chandigarh. This was followed by a job stint with a local newspaper. A camera always came handy while I was working on the field assignments. Gradually, I began doing conceptual work and suddenly self portraiture happened. I fused my passion for writing and clicking into theme-based self portraits." In 2011, Noor showcased her critically acclaimed exhibit, 'The Door Wide Open', on the children of Pingalwara, Amritsar, (a home for the disabled and homeless), in collaboration with UK based NGO, Hope and Compassion. "I showcased this exhibit across Punjab and online. The idea behind it was that special children are as 'normal' as anybody else and they deserve space in the mainstream. I put together shots that show that these children are as happy, as mischievous and as gifted as all of us," informs Noor. Currently, Noor is also working on the second draft of a children's book, besides an international portraits project with a Pakistani photographer, "Both of us were brought together by the common dream of the two nations being better neighbours."
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