|
|
|
Fabrics go veg
Back to past
PACESETTER
|
|
Fabrics go veg
The beautiful and highly talented Li folk singers from Nagaland—the Testeo sisters—performed in their third appearance at the Handshake concert in Bangkok recently. They were attired in clothes made from banana silk fabric made by Kohima-based designer Keds Krome. Home-grown, New-Delhi based designer Sakshee Pradhan will be presenting a collection of Western attire made of banana silk and coconut fibre-infused polyster fabric for the upcoming Wills Lifestyle Summer 2013 show. Bangalore-based designer Deepika Govind has been designing off-beat clothes — from fabrics of soya, corn, jute etc. for more than a decade now. She recently launched even hand-woven organic denim line called ‘denim green’. Hand-woven organic cotton using original craftsmanship and looms that date back centuries has been used in these clothes. Yes, there is a silent, slow but a steady stream of change being witnessed in the apparel industry not only in India but all over the world. Now is the time to say, “It’s different!’’ about the clothes you will be wearing if you take on the new fad clothes. These aren’t the hitherto familiar clothes made from cotton, silk, wool or synthetic. But these are made from fibre-rich raw materials like corn, soya, tensil, bamboo, jute, coconut fibre, hemp, agave etc. In short, currently these are termed as luxury, exotic, unaffordable and comfortable vegetarian fabrics (they are all made from some plant or the other). Deepika has been working along with textile department of the Karnataka Government, Central Silk Technological Research Institute (CSTRI) and researching to make such fabrics on a larger scale. She has worked with tencel (a biodegradable fabric made of wood-pulp cellulose), modal (cellulosic fibre from tree bark), eri-denim (eri silk is a north-eastern silk in a denim weave, creating a fabric that looks and behaves exactly like denim, corn silk (silk made from corn fibre), soya silk (fabric made from soya beans) and many others. Says the designer, “Organic and eco-friendly fashion has become viral. No doubt, there is a very small market for these clothes, as there is not much awareness of existence of such fabric. If from shop-floor assistants to media, and of course designers start understanding, talking and popularising these fabric, there will be a renaissance in the world of fashion.’’ Canada-based designer Lorena Santin-Andrade, who is associated with brand Cotton Ginny, says, “Bamboo is nature’s fastest growing plant and is 100 per cent biodegradable. It makes good sustainable fabric.” Sakshee says, “It is my bit to help keep our environment green. Besides, these fabrics are beautiful. They have a lovely sheen making these appear very glamorous. For my Wills Lifestyle Collection I will dye these in jewel tones. And I agree these clothes are pricey and have a niche buyers only, but then there are customers who appreciate these clothes and I am sure, slowly it will catch up with others also.” Deepika agrees that these clothes look gorgeous. “It is a different feel to work with these fabrics. I know, it still needs to be made popular but there is a niche market. Fabrics from these materials appear rich and the wearer will never want to go back to other fabrics once he or she gets used to apparel from such material. And the raw material, which is always left as waste from plants like corn, jute, coconut, bamboo can be easily utilised making the entire process not only cost effective, but also sustainable,” says the designer. New Delhi-based designer Aneeth Arora, who has client base in more than 20 countries, including Europe and Japan for her eco-friendly cotton clothes, says, “At present, these fabrics are rough in texture. Though they look good, lot of research needs to be done to make them smooth to popularise them in the West. The best way to look fashionable in these clothes is to use them in layers.” Even in men’s apparel, too, these fabrics are being used. Big brands like Raymonds uses bamboo fabric in men’s suiting. This fabric suits tropical climate like ours, where men can dress in formals but still not look hot and uncomfortable. Designers across the globe agree that lot of research needs to be done. But the trend has set in. So next time you visit one of those well-known brands or designer boutiques, ask for such clothes. You may get hooked and may form a small but definite catalyst in this new-wave clothing.
Research and experiment to make these eco-friendly clothes cost-effective, mass produced and popular among masses is on everywhere. In USA, two professors from University of Nebraska-Lincoln Department of Textiles, Clothing and Design, have designed an earth-friendly fabric from corn fibre. Dubbed as ‘husker fibre’, it is renewable and low-cost, provided it is produced on mass scale. Such fabrics could be an answer to the sustainability in textile
industry.
When Lord Rama, Sita and Laxman went to live in the jungle for 14 years, the only clothes they wore were woven from fibres of banana plant. Ditto with the Pandavas as they went to live in the forests for 12 years — they were attired in clothes made from fibres of agave plant. That was nearly 3,000 years ago. Those clothes were comfortable, non-creasy, withstood heat, rain and lasted. In Greece and Egypt, fibres from flax plants, too, were used in pre-historic times. Flax was native to the region extending from Mediterranean to India. It was extensively cultivated in ancient Ethiopia and ancient Egypt. Dyed flax fibres have been found in the prehistoric caves dating back to 30,000 B.C. These prehistoric clothes are today being termed as luxury fabric as these have become a rarity. Clothes made from anything other than cotton, wool, silk or synthetics are termed as exotic and pricey. Only the rich and elite are able to afford them.
Over time and with the machine age setting in, we had lost the art of weaving clothes from fibre-rich raw materials like corn, soya, tensil, bamboo, jute, coconut fibre, hemp, agave etc. Now, slowly we are rediscovering our ancient art. The green brigade is renaming these clothes as regenerated fibres or sustainable fabric. The band of eco-designers and even others are trying to use these regenerated fibres by the name of: from corn fibres—Ingeo and Sorona; from soy protein fibre it is soy silk, from bamboo and rayon its’ tencel, modal and viscose. So the time has come for natural clothes to beat the climate change!
Bamboo, nature’s fastest growing plant, is 100 per cent biodegradable. It makes a good sustainable fabric. Lorena Santin-Andrade, Canada-based designer
|
||||
|
Off the IT path A software professional with a farming background from Punjab has set up an emu farm Vasudha Gupta When an IT professional decides to do step in a non-IT industry, there will be strong signals of doing it differently. At 37, when most professionals are not willing to take risks or putting money in some new business, Parwinder Singh mustered the courage to venture into a whole new arena and set up an emu farm in Punjab. This software professional stood out of the crowd not only because he took on a different challenge but also because he interweaved his IT knowledge to promote emu farming as an industry. In 2006, Parwinder set up a software development firm to promote internet-based firms. “I also established an NGO, Dynamic Entrepreneurs Company (DEC), to assist youngsters establish their own units,” Parwinder shares. Currently his NGO is helping 10 to 15 such companies. Coming from a farming background, he wanted to apply his IT knowledge in this area. The one idea that came to mind was an emu farm. Foraying into an unchartered arena of setting up an emu farm was a daring move for Parwinder. “Awareness is the biggest problem in the industry. Not many people know that emu farming is a popular concept in South India,” he shares. In South India, the lack of fertile soil and depleting water levels has played a vital role in popularising this business. “When you look at Punjab, most of the farmers are only keen on growing wheat and rice due to abundant government support in buy back of these crops,” he adds. The water level in Punjab is also going down fast, as Parwinder came to know when while digging a well; the water came only about at about 300 feet. “The willingness to experiment and venture into new business is low and government is not doing much to encourage it,” he shares. After facing immense problems in acquiring a loan, Parwinder finally set up his emu farm in Punjab last year, which has been keeping him on his toes. The main focus is to bridge the gap between the international market and Indian emu farmers. Parwinder’s knowledge in IT and farming helped him when he tied up with an Australian firm to sell emus. “Their motive is that if we can sell their products in India it will not only benefit them but us as well,” he says. Emu is popular for its 98 per cent fat-free meat, though not many are aware that a carved eggshell of an emu can sell between $100 and $1,000. Planning to develop emu farming as an industry, Parwinder is keen on not just selling the high-quality meat abroad but creating a market for it in India as well. “With just one slaughterhouse, a full-fledged industrial setup can be started,” he shares. Parwinder is certain that the industry will soon flourish in Punjab. All that is needed is devotion and commitment.
|
||||
|
Fan following
Back in the 1940s when a Canadian was introduced to a contraption called the ceiling fan, he thought it could be a profitable business proposition for crowded places in western countries like restaurants, bars and cinema halls. He wrote a letter to the Hong Kong manufacturer asking if these were available in different colours and sizes. “Of course”, wrote back the Hong Kong fan-maker, “You can have any kind of fans you like as long as they are 56 inches in diameter and white in colour!” Look, how times change. From the dowdy white three-blade, the ceiling fan has today metamorphosed into an indoor decorative item that comes in a multitude of colours, shapes and sizes. Its job is not just to silently and efficiently manage air but in addition, it has become an object of great ornamental value that enhances the interiors of a room as much as other ornamental pieces. Colours and materials First, about the colours and materials. Today, fans come in a spectrum of colours ranging from the basic hues to the exotic sounding colours like antique copper, oil-rubbed bronze, brushed steel, matte black, vintage wine, satin nickel and more. The material used in making a fan is no longer confined to stainless steel. Blades can be made from bamboo, wood, plastic, aluminium and a host of other materials. The shapes of fans, too, are being transformed in wildly creative ways. There are fans whose blades retract when not in use. Twin fans, triple fans, a quartet of fans on one mount. Then you can also have a series of fans strung to a pole or two, attractively designed fans on either side of an aluminium pipe. Then there are the art deco, contemporary and geek chic fans. There are special doll-faced fans for young girls, and for boys, fans come in the shape of airplanes and helicopters. Disney has collaborated with Bajaj in India to come up with two fans — The Little Mermaid and Mickey & Donald costing Rs 3,200 a fan. Artistic blades When it comes to creating blades for high-end modern fans, the designers’ imagination literally takes wing. The artistic blades can come in the shape of feathers, outstretched arms, satellite orbiting a planet, single-blade fans, multiple blade fans and — believe it or not — fans with no blades at all. The bladeless fans are the newest fad that has taken the western world by storm. For example, the Dyson Air Multiplier is a pedestal fan without any visible blades. It is a circular tube mounted on a pedestal that throws a powerful draft of air as if by magic. In reality it uses technology found in jet engines to generate a cooling air stream. The blower in the base forces the air through a ring of vents which are aerodynamically contrived to cool the surroundings with air. Time was many centuries ago when the hand-held fan was a utilitarian accessory used to generate air in hot-weathered places. Over the years, the hand fan became a status of wealth, power and fashion. The Paris-based House of Duvelleroy, founded in 1827, created some of the most stunning fans with carvings in ivory, tortoise shell, exotic wood, and horn with mother-of-pearl inlay, enamel, and even feathers. Indian hand fans India, too, excelled in the art of making hand fans. Every major region of India had its exclusive style. The Rajasthani hand fan, for example was usually handmade from papier-mache clay on a wooden base and the motifs were flowers and leaves. There were two kinds of hand fans from Punjab — the Peshawari pakkhe and the smaller version known as the Kundaladar pakkhi on account of their curled ends. The Kutch region has been famous for its artistic hand fans. Similarly, all other regions had their own designs. For most of the 20th century the fan industry has thrived in India and today fans are one of the extensively used appliances in the building industry. Many of these — especially the pedestal fans from the last century, have become high-value vintage objects that find pride of place in the homes of the wealthy people. Interestingly, in India the hand fan is very much in existence today — and thriving in rural areas and small towns, which are prone to frequent power cuts. However, these co-exist not just with the ordinary electric ceiling and pedestal fans but also with some of the new innovatively designed remote-controlled fans that come fitted with decorative lights and satin tassels. Here’s looking at some of the most fancy newage fans that are putting a sparkle to the interiors.
Caruso twin ceiling fan
Price: $1,125 to $1,350
(Rs 56,250- Rs 67,500)
Americana short
Price: $1,800
(Rs 90,000)
Monte Carlo Cruise outdoor fan
Price: $220
(Rs 11,000)
Bayhill
Price $700
(Rs 35,000)
Brisa
Price: $1,480
(Rs 74,000)
Banvil hand fan
Price: Between $500 and $1,000 for pre-owned fans
(Rs 25,000 and Rs 50,000)
Enigma
Price: $1,900
(Rs 95,000)
Duplo-Dinamico
Price: $1,670
(Rs 83,500)
Camden
Price: $350 for 18 inch blade & $550 for 22-inch blade
(Rs 17,500 & 27,500)
Palmetto
This fan is so stunningly unique that it brings to fore form, function and style. The Palmetto Section Ceiling Fan includes one motor unit with two nine-foot spans and three-blade hubs per span (a total of six blades). One can purchase up to five sections for a total span of 45 feet. Produced by American company Fanimation, which is one of the most creative fan designers of the world, the fan is usually found in leading resorts, hotels and restaurants around the world. For those who can afford it, it can make home interiors sparkle. Price: $10,000
(Rs 5 lakh)
Wailea by Casablanca
Price: $190 to $240
(Rs 9,500 to Rs 12,000)
|
||||
|
TAKE DISNEY TO SCHOOL
Price: School bags between
Rs 599 and Rs 1,599
MUSIC is IN the air
Price: $16,000
(Rs 8 lakh)
ON THE FAST LANE
price: Ranging from $100 to $460 (From
Rs 5,000 to Rs 23,000)
FLOWER POWER
Price: $3,595
(Rs 1.8 lakh)
KEY TO STYLE
Price: $75
(Rs 3,750)
SWEET TEMPTATION
Price: $1.5 million
(Rs 7.5 crore)
GETTING SPORTY
Price: Ranging from $315 to $500 (From
Rs 15,750 to Rs 25,000)
BAGGAGE FROM THE PAST
Price: Ranging from $6,000 to $9,000 a piece (From
Rs 3 lakh to Rs 4.5 lakh)
FISH ’N’ FLUSH TOILET
Price: $500
(Rs 25,000)
ATTITUDE ON YOUR WRIST
Price:
Rs 5.4 lakh
|
|