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Ittar is in
Ring tone
PACESETTER Khushboo
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Ittar is in
Monsoon
in a bottle, blossoms on your fingertips — it is not plain wishful thinking. Welcome to the world of ittar or attar. The name itself conjures images of royals — from Mughal emperors to Egyptian Pharaohs anointing themselves in a multitude of fragrances. In fact, ittar, a term derived from Arabic word attar means scent, and there is one for every season. So, you could beat the summer heat with cooling essence of rose (ruh-gulab) or khas, recreate the petrichor of dry earth consuming first monsoon showers with attar-gil (scent of earth) or simply snuggle up in the spicy warmth of ittar-hina on a cold winter evening. “Till almost a century back, nawabs and maharajas would have their quilt-makers mix 10 gm of hina with cotton to derive a lingering scent as well as warmth in the cold months,” narrates Mukul Gundhi, managing partner of old Delhi’s famous 193-year-old ittar shop Gulab Singh Johri Mal. History books mention that Mark Anthony had gifted his beautiful queen Cleopatra a perfume factory where she would concoct her own fragrances. Royal patronage may be a thing of bygone era but the old-world charm of ittar continues to fascinate its connoisseurs even today. Ram Iyer, a Mumbai-based musician and perfume collector for last 20 years, has a vast collection of perfumes and ittars from all around the world. He says what gives ittar an advantage over modern day perfumes is its exclusivity. “Anyone can buy and flaunt a Davidoff or a Calvin Klein but hardcore perfume enthusiasts would want something that is their signature style — an extension of their persona.” Ittar can be customised as per a buyer’s taste and that is what makes it so unique. Unlike modern day perfumes, pure ittar is an all-natural product derived from distilling flower extract over career oil like sandalwood. Whilst even a designer perfume can last only for a few hours thanks to its alcohol content, ittar notes last until you wash them off. In fact, as your body heat acts upon ittar oil, the notes become more pronounced with time. “What I really love about ittar is the fact that its scent stays in my clothes even after they have been washed. My friends often wonder what perfume I am wearing,” says 20-year-old mass media student Moushmi Suvarna.
Pure vs synthetic
He further explains that these days many college-going youngsters flock his shop to buy synthetic ittars as these are inexpensive, “Youngsters want to be trendy but can’t spend too much so they come to us looking for knock offs of international perfume brands like Christian Dior.” Some of the hot-selling rip-offs include aqua notes based Blue Magic, Ice cool, Tehelka and Funtoosh — the names self explanatory of the target audience. Commenting on the current trends in ittar market, Bangalore-based perfume expert Ahalya Matthan says, “Ittars are getting more and more modern with the use of synthetic ingredients and the range is vast from heavy single note fragrances to light contemporary fragrances. Moreover, when you buy and ittar is mixed in front of you, the process as much as the fragrance does the selling.” The flip side of synthetic ittar is that it doesn’t have any of the medicinal properties associated with pure ittar but that is hardly a deterrent to someone on a shoe-string budget. “Buying ittar is economical so I can wear a different one to college every day. My friends wonder how many perfumes have I got and it is better than smelling bad,” says Aishwarya, another student.
Ittar and aromatherapy
Experts agree that aromatherapy might be a relatively new concept in the western world but in India and Arabic world ittar has always been associated with healing properties. The essence of kewda, a flower originating in Orissa is said to relieve headaches as well as prevent heat stroke. Attar zafran (saffron) is believed to cure insomnia and depression while the sublime scent of rose attar could uplift one’s spirits and calm their nerves. Ittar hina — a combination of spices distilled over sandalwood is so hot, it is said to clear congestion and relieve cold. Because of their therapeutic properties ittars are seasonal. While khas, kewda or jasmine is cooling in summers, one might want to avoid using them in cold winter months. Also, since there is no standard formula to produce ittar one has to be very careful about the brand they are buying. As perfume connoisseur, Ram Iyer warns, “Buying ittar is not always a pleasant experience specially when trying out new brands. Some of the cheap ittars can give you a bad headache as the notes break down.”
Arabic and Indian variants
In India, the city of Kannauj is considered the heartland of ittar. The perfume-capital of India, once patronised by the Mughal queen Noorjehan, is now struggling with obsolete ittar production methods. There are, however, establishments like Ajmal, Poorandas Ranchhooddas of Hyderabad, Sughadndco of Lucknow and Gulabsingh Johrimal of Chandani Chowk that still carry the legacy forward. The packaging of ittars has also evolved over time and fragile handmade glass bottles have given way to beautiful but sturdy vials. Yet, Indian ittar market is lagging behind in terms of cutting edge packaging as compared to the Middle-Eastern countries. A look at strikingly beautiful crystal packaging and monument shaped ittar bottles from Middle-Eastern brands like Al Haramain leave much to be desired back-home.
A scent for the gods
There is something so captivating about the fragrance of ittars that from common man to the royals, no one can resist them. However, set near the foothills of Aravali close to lake-city Udaipur there is an abode where even the gods are not immune to the magical effects of ittar. At the temple of Nathdwara, pilgrims offer variants of ittar like rose, khus, kesar, jasmine and mogra to Lord Shrinath depending upon the season and the occasion. It is believed that Lord Srinath himself patronises the local ittar-producers here. Over the years, it has tempted the gods, serenaded the royals and charmed the commoners. The magic of ittar refuses to fade and to sum it up in the words of author Patrick Suskind, “Odours have a power of persuasion stronger than that of words, appearances, emotions, or will”.
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Ring tone Manish
is about to make one of the most important decisions of his life. He is on the verge of selecting an engagement ring for his bride-to-be Shweta. At a popular jewellery showroom in Delhi's South Extension, he has in front of him myriad choices. There's a single sparkling diamond ring, a three-diamond ring, a solitaire with side accents, a band with a cluster of precious stones and a number of other selections. A sales manager with a luxury hotel, Manish knows the importance of an engagement ring. It is a celebration of love that he and Shweta will share forever. But how he expresses it will depend largely on his choice. Finally, after days of weighing his various options, he decides to buy an elegant Spiral Solitaire Ring costing Rs 1.25 lakh. What is so significant about a ring that has occupied Manish's mind for so many days? The answer is simple. Whether it is an engagement ring or a marriage ring or even an anniversary ring, it is a special piece of jewellery for someone you love. And finding the perfect ring requires time, research and effort.
Gift of love
Throughout history, rings have come to signify happy occasions. There is an interesting story on why women wear it on the third finger of the left hand. According to folklore, the ancient Greeks believed that a vein of love travelled from the heart to this finger. Ever since then the tradition has continued and the ring finger becomes the subject of adornment during a marriage ceremony. However, it is not just at weddings that rings assume significance. These are also worn as a fashion statement. The cocktail ring, for example, is a great style statement and an important part of a woman's accessories. It can add a pop of panache to a woman's attire as it is usually an oversized ornamental ring that matches with a party dress. It is also called a 'cluster ring' or a 'dinner ring'.
Global brands
There is a mind-boggling variety of rings dished out by jewellers around the world led by global brands like Van Cleef & Arpels, Graff of London, Tiffany, Piaget, Cartier and Chopard. Much like couture every season, these companies come out with a collection of rings in different shapes, styles and sizes studded with diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, garnets, opals, tsavorite, tourmalines, kunzite and aquamarine gemstones, Swarovski crystals and a host of other precious rocks. These can range from a few dollars to those costing a fortune. In India, too, which has a rich tradition of jewellery, the ring has come to occupy a very important place during weddings and other ceremonial occasions. Not just that, companies like Tanishq, Nakshatra, Gitanjali, Tribhovandas Bhimji Jhaveri, Gili, Asmi, Sangini and others are churning out exquisite rings in platinum, gold and silver encrusted with diamonds, sapphires and other precious stones.
Colourful diamonds
Interestingly even diamonds are no longer just simple colourless precious stones. These come in several colours, including red, green, blue, pink, black, yellow and orange. These colours are a result of the different minerals that get into the diamond during its formative stage. For example, a yellow diamond would have nitrogen in it and a blue diamond would be the result of the presence of boron in the diamond. As in precious stones, rings can come in a variety of metals like platinum, yellow gold, white gold, silver, titanium, tungsten, and even stainless steel. Though styles keep changing from season to season, some of the timeless classics include the delicate and sophisticated vintage rings and rings made of colourful precious stones like emeralds and yellow diamonds, rings in different shapes.
Celebrity trends
Going by what leading celebrities are flaunting, the trends seem to be changing. The solitaire ring is giving way to emerald cut, cushion cut, oval cut and pear cut rings. Then, there is a preference for different coloured diamonds like canary yellow, cognac and champagne as also diamonds cut in floral shapes and rings made of mixed metals with blue sapphire stones. There is also a strong revival of vintage rings in India. Some of these are exquisitely crafted pieces embellished with precious stones and are a throwback of an era of royalty. Traditionally, in India, rings have indeed been the ultimate jewellery to adorn the hands. Whether delicate, elegant or oversized knuckle dusters, these reflect the wearer's personality and individual style and can make one a cynosure of all eyes.
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Putting their lives back on track Khushboo Jain is dedicated to changing the lives of poor children living on the New Delhi Railway Station A. Rodrigues Arvind
is one of the six children of a poor family from Bengal. As a child, he was fed just once a day and toiled from morning to evening in his grandparent's fields. Frustrated by his wretched existence he ran away from home and landed at the New Delhi Railway Station. As he stepped out of the station and saw the bustling world, fear gripped his mind. Where would he go? What would he eat? Where would he sleep? He broke into a cold sweat and hurried back to the station where he sat in a corner and cried. Within minutes, the Railway Protection Force officer caught him and took him to a night shelter. He loathed the experience and when the sun broke the next morning ran back to the railway station. He has been there since then. Arvind is just one of the many children who land at the New Delhi Railway Station every day. For runaway kids like him, Khushboo Jain is a guardian angel. She is researching the causes that make children run away from home. Khushboo who is studying for her Ph.D from the Delhi School of Economics is doing a thesis titled A Sociological Study of Street Children and Youth in Delhi. But what started as a pure academic pursuit has metamorphosed into a deeply emotional bond with these children. So how did this transformation come about? Khushboo got drawn into a fight for the rights of the railway station children quite by accident. A young ragpicker was crushed to death by a shunting train. His cut-up body lay on the tracks and the cops and railway authorities showed no urgency to remove it. That was the turning point in Khushboo's life. “I was completely devastated by their apathy. That's when I decided to play a more proactive role than being a mere data collector for my Ph.D.” In 2012, Khushboo petitioned the High Court of Delhi asking for the implementation of the recommendations of the National Council for the Protection of Child Rights for safeguarding urchins at railway platforms. Taking note of her petition, the High Court ruled in her favour in February 2013. Khushboo does not have an NGO nor does she belong to any. However, having won a battle in the High Court, she has now set her eyes on ensuring the implementation of the order and is working with different NGOs to make the New Delhi Railway Station child friendly and child safe. She says these kids learn how to take care of themselves very fast. All they need is some emotional support. “Monetary help is important,” says Khushboo and adds, “but what is more important is some value addition to their lives. More than the money, these kids want a bit of dignity. And when you give them dignity their faces light up with happiness.” And that, for Khushboo Jain, is just reward for her efforts.
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DRIVING ON LAND & WATER Expected price:
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HAIR’S TO A CHAIR
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WORLD’S PUREST WATER
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TEATIME WITH VERSACE
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PICTURE-PERFECT 14
Price: Between
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OWN A PART OF F1 HISTORY
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WORTH ITS PRICE IN GOLD
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SEEING IS BELIEVING
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