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New colours of matrimony The modern Indian bride was the muse for most designers at the India Couture Week. Only if it had more surprises
The pendulum of fashion constantly oscillates between the past and present. It’s especially true for couture that travels back in time, seeks inspirations, picks motifs, gathers ideas and on the way back sieves the best from the rest. It happened yet again, at this year’s edition of Fashion and Design Council of India, Shree Raj Mahal Jewellers India Couture Week, where vintage and classic art and embroidery forms were beautifully whipped with opulence. Only novelty did the Houdini’s act! Woman with an edge It’s been a while since the muse of the Indian fashion designers has remained a constant — their love affair with the modern Indian woman. They now construct clothes for a woman, who is well-travelled and edgy, or as Varun Bahl says, "powerful". Monisha Jaising’s collection’s World Bride was self-explanatory, dedicated to the woman heading for the destination wedding and is a globe trotter. The collection had a mix of silhouettes, from gowns (both printed and embroidered) to lehengas to leggings to saree gowns. Her show-stopper, Lisa Haydon walked the ramp in lehenga in contrasting colours of black and white, where in the choli was replaced by the knotted white shirt. The Indian connection was highlighted by the chura and kaliras she wore with the ensemble. Fashion designer Varun Bahl continued with his tryst with black and sheer. In his collection India Moderne, he tossed the favourite ethnic wear of Indian women into their contempo rary versions. He did away with the kalis of the Anarkali, instead he kept the silhouette A line and added circular-cut patterns. He fused Indian and western wear in the form of saree-pant and lehenga gowns. A change in store for men If not as much as brides, grooms have garnered some importance in the last couple of years. At least those rolling out couture from the studios hold their new-found clients in high esteem. If Sabyasachi added colour to men’s wardrobe, Anju Modi made the structure of the clothes get easy, read dhotis that dominated the bottom-wear segment. Rohit Bal fragmented his collection for men into two, the first in all ivory, the designer’s signature colour and the other all colourful. The silhouettes, however, he remained impartial to in both cases. But it was Sabyasachi’s floral print-on-print bandhgala and sleeveless Nehru jackets embellished with 18-carat gold on male models with fluffy beards that might make men revise their D-day outfits. On a different note While others in the list made clothes that are beautiful, Manish Arora and Gaurav Gupta paved their own path that pledged edginess. Manish Arora’s full-on-bling, full-on-colour five capsule collections were also aimed to portray women who are powerful. He stuck to his plan of action, of bringing out the quirkiness in his creations, of creating his ever-favourite, psychedelic designs. To add to that further, gold-colour dominated ensembles were paired with headgears as quirky. There were gowns, lehengas, jackets, kurtis, bell-bottoms in his collection, which proved why is he has reached dizzying heights in his career. Though not edgy on the face, Gaurav Gupta’s Wink of Nyx, Goddess of Night had elements of surprise, it was experimental in its own subtle way. There were gowns that had a slit at the waist, or near the cleavage, sarees interestingly paired with capes. Embroidery and structure of the gowns were so aesthetically balanced that each creation had an international appeal to it. If an Indian fashion designer does fusion best, it has to be Gaurav Gupta, always. Vintage appeal Even before boarding Sabyasachi’s luxury train for Ferozabad, the passenger-like fashion followers had a cue what the journey would be like. Vintage has been an essential feature of his last many collections and how we have loved it each time! This edition too, with sets of a luxury train that promised an old world charm, we lapped up the bullion thread work, block prints, 18 carat gold buttons, zardosi, crystals and bugle beads, appliqué work, Parsi and Kashmiri embroidery, bandhgala and trousers, sarees, lehengas, kurtas-churidaars, Nehru jackets, sherwanis, in beige, red, green, orange, pink. For that matter, even Anju Modi’s collection, Manikarnama was aimed at evoking the past. The embroidery motifs were inspired from Ajanta-Ellora caves. Her designs bore a vintage stamp, especially in terms of silhouettes, which introduced the revamped dhoti once again. Even the colour scheme complemented the theme, with sepia and jewel tones colouring the larger part of the canvas. The subject was termed as, "Neo-Bride" when designs by Bollywood favourite designer Manish Malhotra took the centre stage. Titled, Portraits, he tried to frame the woman who has a modern outlook but takes pride in her heritage. The subject was fancily termed, "Neo-Bride" when designs by Bollywood favourite designer Manish Malhotra took the centre stage. Titled, Portraits, he tried to frame the woman who has a modern outlook but takes pride in her heritage. To portray the same effectively, the designer this time took to Kashmiri zari and interpreted it in a contemporary way. It looked so vintage, so classic and so for the bride of today. Let the past be past There is no denying the fact that Sabyasachi knows how to create magic with clothes, that Anju Modi infuses life in age-old crafts and embroidery patterns, that Manish Arora gave birth to a new kid of fashion but haven’t we all seen that, known that forever now. Ferozabad was repetitive; it looked like an extension of his last collection Opium. Anju Modi’s Draupadi was far more tempting than Manikarnama because that had a fresh appeal; this was a like a sequel desperate to make the same impact. And Manish Arora’s was interesting, intriguing, it even got a standing ovation but was new enough. As for Rina Dhaka, her collection didn’t have much to offer. Novelty was the only casualty at the fashion week. |
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Demure is out, meet the power bride If the credits of the directors and makers of the Indian fashion industry were to roll down a screen, it would begin with the couturiers of the country. It is them who introduced the Indian embroideries to the world, interspersed them with contemporary silhouettes to increase the consumption internationally. Even now, each time, Rohit Bal, Manish Malhotra, Sabyasachi and the likes make a ramp outing with their collections, fashion followers sit up and take notice. At the India Couture Week too, they were welcomed and applauded among others as they unveiled the couture trends for the season that spelt change for the bride, who is powerful and well-travelled. Here is a recce of the fashion week in pictures.
— ASB
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EXPLORING A SUNKEN KINGDOM
CHARGING GOES WIRELESS
MASTERPIECE PENMANSHIP
DESIGNER BIKE
SOUND OF WOOD
FRAGRANCE No 1
BOND WATCH
This car’s ALL AT SEA
GROOMING TURNS STYLISH
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