Mysterious and incredible Bhuj

Aakash Mehrotra

A trip to Bhuj from Rajkot is a rickety one. From the hustle and bustle of a commercial centre, one is transported to a town which exudes an old-world charm. As you peep out of your car at the salt pans approaching Bhuj, you intuitively know that everything fits in. The arid landscape of Kutch is strikingly in contrast with the shimmering six-lane highway in the foreground. There is something tantalisingly beautiful in the nothingness of the landscape of Bhuj, India’s largest district and the centrepoint of the Kutch region.

The first halt in Bhuj has to be Parag Mahal, the royal palace. The palace seems a little out of place in this western edge of the country, looking more appropriate for some historic town of Europe. The Parag Mahal boasts of the second highest clock tower in India, the highest being the Rajabhai Clock Tower in Mumbai. At the Parag Mahal, you are allowed to climb up right at the top of the clock tower via a dangerously spiralled staircase and have a bird’s eye-view of the Bhuj city. The five massive balls of the clock tower weigh about 700 kg. Although some parts of the palace have been closed for renovation, you can still go to the pompous Darbar Hall, where many shots of the movie Lagaan have been shot.

Right next to the Parag Mahal is Aaina Mahal. The fabulous interiors, especially the Hall of Mirrors because of which it got the name ‘Aaina Mahal’ is worth a watch. The Aaina Mahal was built in 1752 during the reign of Lakhpatji of the Jadeja dynasty. The Fuvara Mahal, which was used as a music room by Lakhpatji, is another jewel with huge Belgian chandeliers adding to the beauty. In the main room outside it are artefacts and paintings of the Maharaja’s time.

A little close to this is the Swami Narayan Temple, fondly known as the Bhuj temple. The temple suffered colossal damages in the Bhuj earthquake and has now been rebuilt by the followers. The temple looks bathed in white marble and gold. The intricate carvings and floral designs, mostly inspired by the episodes in the Ramayana, are a sight to behold. From a distance, the temple seems like a white nymph tucked in the middle of a town.

From the temple, which is almost in the centre of the city, the next stop can be the Himsagar Lake and the monuments around it. To begin with, the Sarad Bagh Palace is appropriate. Located on the eastern side of the lake, this is one of the most modest of palaces one can come across. Hidden entirely among the lavish gardens, it seems like a hidden castle among the hubbub of the city.

Overlooking the road is the famous Kutch Museum, which has an eclectic display of artefacts of the Jadeja dynasty, which ruled the Kutch area till 1947, the remains of the Indus Valley Civilisation from the famous site of Dholavira, arms and ammunition of the rulers of Kutch and the famous Kutchi arts and embroidery. A short visit to the museum is suggested as it literally walks you through centuries of evolvement of the Kutch area.

Another decent stopover can be the Jain Trimandir, located on the outskirts of the city and the Chattardi or the Cenotaphs complex, one of the largest and finest Cenotaphs in India, built by Rao Lakha in 1790; at some distance from the Himsagar Lake. The Himsagar Lake is itself quite a nice spot, especially for the birders. Apart from the common teals and shovellers, one can spot the bar-headed geese and Chinese coots, besides storks and herons. In winters, flocks of migratory birds make it their temporary halt. If you are done with the city and have time on your hand, hire a taxi or auto and venture out to Bhujodi and Kodki village.

Kodki, nearly 10 km from Bhuj, doesn’t have a lot to offer except for an amazing view at dusk or dawn, of a crack, created by the earthquake of 1819, through which the Kodki river gushes. The landscape gives you a feeling of a canyon and offers an ideal place to loiter around and seep in the view.

Unlike the Kodki village, Bhujodi finds a special mention in the travel map of Bhuj. Bhujodi is an artisan village and a major centre of Kutch handicraft. The Bhujodi park has many shops where you can prowl your eyes on village arts like embroidery, block painting, tie-dye, bandehaani, leather work, wall paintings, intricate embroideries, book cases and others. Most of the things fit into the budget and you can literally bring to life your dream of hoarding beautiful articles from market in this place. Kutch is home to some of the most exquisite embroideries and handicraft, which have inspired leading fashion designers. The mirror work that we see in the cholis comes from the women of nomadic Rabari tribe known for Bavalia embroidery.

The city of Bhuj is certainly not a stopover for the Rann of Kutch. It is the abundance of art and culture in vibrant colours, the exuberant spirit of the locals, the luxury of silence, enchantment of handicrafts and a paradise for bird watchers, which makes the city worth exploring.