Witness to history, Clermont struggling to stay alive

Rifat Mohidin

SRINAGAR, MAY 24

Butts Clermont-a fleet of houseboats on the banks of the Dal Lake at Naseem Bagh- housed famous people of the world once. But now it is struggling for survival due to the negligence of the government.

Owned by Britisher R Foster in the 40s, the fleet of eight houseboats was handed over by Foster to his Kashmiri friend GM Butt-a handicraft dealer- when India attained freedom. Today the houseboats are being taken care of by the third generation of GM Butt.

“We suffered a lot due to militancy but even at that time, the war correspondents from across the world used to stay here. We have hosted known correspondents from the globe during the Kargil War too,” said Manzoor Ahmad Butt, grandson of GM Butt.

A glimpse of history

Surrounded by Mughal walls built in the 16th century, some of the famous people who have stayed at the Clermont’s were Nelson Rockefeller, the 41st vice-president of the United States, award-winning actress Joan Fontaine, Bollywood legend Dilip Kumar, actor Michael Palin and Pulitzer Prize winning photojournalist James Natchetway. 

Clermont is still an attraction for the high-end foreign tourists visiting Kashmir. The unique thing about Clermont is its garden which is spread over 70 kanals of semi-circular properly manicured lawns and mighty Chinars. 

The fleet of houseboats which has given publicity to Kashmir tourism on international level seems to be struggling now to remain alive. As one enters the small reception, where the grandson of GM Butt sits, one can get a glimpse of the history of Kashmir from 1920. There are letters of gratitude pasted on the walls from people of different countries, politicians, celebrities, praising GM Butt for his hospitality. 

“We have hosted famous British musician George Harrison in 1966. Even Sheikh Abdullah used to come here and meet foreign ambassadors for negotiations between India and Pakistan when he was the PM,” he said.

The name of the houseboat-Clermont- is the name of the native place of Foster who was from England, reads one of the letters on the wall.

Floods wreaked havoc

After the floods last year, the fleet lost one houseboat, which sunk into the rising waters, leaving only the upper structure behind. 

“One houseboat which was already damaged at the bottom was totally washed away due to floods. We were not able to get its structure out of the water,” Butt said.

Govt not allowing repairs

The current policy of the state government does not allow the houseboat owners to do any repairs. But this could lead to the extinction of houseboats in Kashmir, he alleged. 

“The government is not allowing us to repair the houseboats and this is making the houseboats extinct. Maybe the houseboats will survive for another 20 years but not more,” Butt claimed.

The government has taken no steps after floods to help the owners rebuild their business. “Government does not allow people to rebuild their houseboats or provide them timber, they should come up with some scientific  ways through which this rich heritage can be saved for future generations,” he said.

“Though during the recent floods we were able to save the houseboats but we have not been able to host tourists after September last year,” Butt said.

“The government has not come up with any help or compensation. We are doing everything on our own. We are trying to restart things,” he lamented.

Members of Houseboat Association said 15 houseboats collapsed completely during floods while 250 were partially damaged.

“If the government does not pay attention, Clermont might soon become a part in the history of Kashmir,” Butt added.