The connecting thread

Manpriya Singh

Khadi is a fabric with history and the rest is literally history. The rough spun cloth from India came into being as a movement, became a symbol; today it charts a journey. The journey that’s been long and satisfying. Starting from the protesting masses and surviving history, overlooking the promoting ramps and reviving fashionably!

As FDCI comes together with Gujarat State Khadi and Village Industries Board, we take stock of the designers that have recently played along with the handspun fabric.

But what makes it stand apart could be pure objectivity. Opines designer Agnimitra Paul, who also showcased at the Chandigarh Style Week, “Khadi speaks for itself. That is one of the reasons why designers increasingly continued to be drawn to this fabric. It is a fabric that doesn’t need any embellishments or work to stand apart.”

Having just finished an exclusive collection on muslin for Kolkata based Studio Muslin, she adds, “The feel of any organic material will always stand apart. Muslin is basically khadi with a thread count of above 300.”

The recently held Gujarat Khadi Utsav not just roped in the creative heads of the fashion fraternity but had them coming together in one outfit. Showstopper Sonam Kapoor walked in a choli by Anamika Khanna, a dupatta by Rajesh Pratap Singh and a lehenga by Rohit Bal.

Back in 2012, textile designer Gaurang Shah gave a little peep into India and its weavers by presenting a khadi line at the eco-friendly section of the Berlin Fashion Week. With white as the base for most of the garments, the collection comprised summer motifs birds, sunflowers, foliage to highlight the breezy structure of the fabric.

Progressive mode

Closer home, at last year’s Bangladeshi Fashion Week, designer Purvi Doshi’s collection rightly titled Back To Start drew from the strong flavours of India. There were intricate motifs, glasswork all in naturally woven indigenous fabric, khadi. “I have always wanted to promote the natural fabrics we have in our country. It is an excellent way to progress,” shared the Gujarat-based designer. And who hasn’t been made aware of the fact that Indian handlooms touch livelihood of millions of Indians.

At Lakme Fashion Week Winter Festive 2014, designers Anavila Sindhu Mishra, Purvi Doshi and Sashikant Naidu together brought organic fashion to centre-stage. While Anavila’s collection titled Mohenjo Daro transported the audience back in time by using fabrics like silk, dupion, fletcher and khadi. Sashikant Naidu presented his collection in light layered and textured outfits, all made in khadi. “What makes khadi so appealing is that there is this rawness to the fabric and yet it entails the evolution of the mind of the wearer.” A wearer evolved enough to take pride in roots.

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