Weaves of culture

Manpriya Singh

BLURB: Traditionally mothers kept Phulkari dupatta in their daughters wedding trousseau. The art form now embarks on a new journey as it promises to add an outstanding look to the attire

Timeless, exquisite and inherited. Dying revived and re-defined. As much as the repetitive circle of history, Phulkari has been through the myriads moods of the business of fashion. Nevertheless, all along they have been the delicate threads of celebration, cultural significance, vivid patterns and delightful colours.

Jacqueline Fernandez’s picture as the showstopper in a Manish Malhotra creation has already gone for the overkill. On the brighter side, his collection Threads of Emotion, first showcased at the India Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2013 brought Phulkari on the sidelines? Or shall we say rather centre stage? On the sleeves of the Indian ethnic wardrobe, as the borders of a saree, as a blouse in contemporary silhouettes… as the little detailing of a monotone outfit. Dying, revived and truly redefined.

“Traditional Phulkari was a full sheet of ‘khaddar’ with various patterns hand embroidered with patt da dhaga, which the women worked upon from the back of the fabric by counting wafts. We have come a long way since then,” shares Kirandeep Kaur, co-founder, label 1469.

Well, we truly have. She adds, “The contemporary Phulkari is more about the patterns used in the earlier baghs made with hand, with silk threads by tracing on front. But we are making stoles, kurtis and accessories using the embroidery technique. At the same time 1469 is digitizing old patterns to preserve and create trendy wear with digital Phulkari prints on crepe, cotton and tussar.”

Tradition meets contemporary

The traditional embroidery from Punjab is all set to make a further mark into everyday wardrobes in even newer ways. Gaurang Shah, who showcased some exquisite pieces in his collection Kalpavriksha at the recently concluded Lakme Fashion Week Summer Resort 2015, dishes out a few options, “The traditonal Phulkaris are embroidered on khadi, which is a slightly thicker fabric. These come handy as heritage shawls. One could wear a Phulkari over a saree as a take-along or one could wear a simple solid coloured outfit like an anarkali or lehenga and take the Phulkari like a shawl. That will bring out the best in the ensemble.”

A perfect meeting ground of heritage heirloom and contemporary designs. He adds, “The beauty of this embroidery lies in its motifs, technique and rarity. Traditionally, while doing the embroidery, no design was drawn with a pencil, but the motifs were laid by counting the yarns of the fabric. Even a single error could lead to the design going haywire. The geometric designs are known to the world as the face of Phulkari. But there are rare pieces that show scenes of war and daily life. It is the simplicity but the intricate craftsmanship that is beautiful.”

Handle with care

While the old pieces deserve a definite status of heirloom, passed through generations, there’s a lot that can be done to contemporary dupattas. “The contemporary dupattas and stoles can be teamed with plain fabrics to let Phulkari show its look,” shares Kirandeep before adding a couple of dos and don’ts, “Phulkari should be dry cleaned only as many a times the silk threads bleed as most of the pieces are made by ladies at home and they may not adhere to quality assurance techniques.” The flipside of any absence of industrial standardization. Moving on, the pastel shades and Phulkari patterns have been doing the popular rounds of heritage boutiques. Phulkari as we know it has literally changed colours, even the brighter ones.

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