Kashmir’s sufi spirit soars amid fire alarm in shrines

M Aamir Khan in Srinagar

When the spire of the Kashmir valley’s oldest Sufi shrine ‘Khanqah-e-Moala’ was damaged in a fire on Wednesday, it again exposed the J&K government’s unpreparedness to effectively tackle such incidents.

People censured the authorities for the lack of fire preparedness measures, but the episode did demonstrate Kashmir’s longstanding sufi traditions and love for its shrines. People from all over the Valley — some crying loudly and others praying — rushed to the Khanqah on the banks of the Jhelum in old Srinagar city.

Despite concerns over radicalization and opposition of the orthodox Muslim groups to the veneration of shrines, the common Kashmiri has not only thronged every shrine on Urs days, but also vociferously expressed anger when the relics of the Sufis faced a possible danger. “Kashmir has always been a mystical place. Spirituality has always remained alive here. The deep love and devotion towards the shrines is exhibited by people on Urs days or when incidents like that of fire at Khanqah or Dastageer Sahib take place….this spirit will never die,” says Prof Hamid Naseem Raifiabadi, who has authored several books on sufism and is considered an expert on the subject.

He referred to the gutting of the revered shrine of the 11th century Sufi saint Shaikh Syed Abdul Qadir Jeelani, popularly known as Dastageer Sahib, at Khanyar in old Srinagar city on June 25, 2012. The incident had triggered widespread protests and anger over inadequate fire-fighting infrastructure at the shrines.

Dastageer Sahib’s actual shrine is in Baghdad (Iraq) and he never visited Kashmir in person. Similarly, the ‘Khanqah-e-Moala’ is devoted to 14th century Persian sufi saint Mir Syed Ali Hamadani, who spread Islam in the Valley. His actual shrine too is located outside the Valley at Khatlan in Tajikistan.

However, their sufi traditions found a home in Kashmir that were owned and taught by several Valley-based mystics. The shrines of these sufis can now be found in every nook and corner of the Valley where people continue to venerate them.

The most venerated are the Shaikh-ul-Alam’s shrine known as Chrar-e-Sharif in Budgam district, Makhdoom Sahib on the city’s Hari Parbat hillock, Baba Reshi in North Kashmir and Zain Shah Sahib at Ashmuqam in South Kashmir where the sufi saints preached Islam and also lay buried.

Moreover, the white marbled Hazratbal shrine on the banks of Dal Lake that houses the holy relic (hair strand) of Prophet Muhammad draws around two lakh devotees on ‘Eid-e-Milad’ (birth anniversary of the Prophet). The devotees mainly come to catch a glimpse of the holy relic — a practice frowned upon by the orthodox groups.

Many of these shrines are all wooden and being promoted as pilgrim and heritage tourism destinations. The ‘Khanqah-e-Moala’ itself is the oldest of its kind in the Valley that was first built in 1395 AD. It is known for its intricate wooden and paper machie works.

After the fire incident at Khanqah, Chief Minister Mehbooba Mufti, who is also the chairperson of the Wakf, called for a safety audit of all shrines where the administration was directed to come up with whatever precautionary measures are required to protect these places of reverence.

On ground, all in J&K — right from the Raj Bhavan to the common man — is concerned and wants the preservation and safety of these shrines. Mirwaiz Umar Farooq led a special repentance prayer at Khanqah during which emotional scenes were witnessed. Similarly, Hurriyat leader Syed Ali Geelani, who was under house arrest, sent a delegation to the shrine to get a ground report while expressing grief over the incident.

“Kashmir has always been referred to as ‘Pir Vear’ (Valley of Saints). Kashmir’s age-old sufi traditions have braved all odds. This spirit was visible when everybody right from the CM to the common man rushed to Khanqah after hearing the news of fire. We can only hope that the safety audit is taken to its logical end this time,” said Imran Dar, a devotee.