The wild wild world of Masai Mara

Aakash Mehrotra 

Mara grasslands roll towards the horizon with only some occasional Acacia trees to break the view as groups of wildebeest and zebra assemble at a point to start their great migration in August towards Masai Mara National Park, Kenya, from Serengeti National Park, Tanzania, crossing the Mara River in search of greener pastures. In one season, more than two million wildebeest, about a million zebras and Thomson’s gazelle cross over to Masai Mara. Watching these animals cross the river under an impulse, bracing the threat of crocodiles in the river, is a call to action. But coming together of a group and crossing are two different things. Zebras will go down to the river in a group of two or three to assess the waters and go back after quenching their thirst. You can never predict what’s going on in their mind. They might leap forth under some impulse or wait for days before taking the plunge.

Watching a migration happen is a matter of luck. But Mara has always something to lift you. Spotting anything feline or finding a pack of hyenas in action is common. The chances of a face-off between bitter enemies, lions and hyenas gets unwarranted but still enough chances to witness that. Keep your ears alert, there is always something happening in these rolling grasses, when prey are in plenty and predators in action.

As you drive towards the Kenya-Tanzania border, you can notice the landscape changing, the undulating landscape gradually turning flatter with shorter and yellower grass. The dry, flat plains bubble with life. There would be possibly millions of wildebeest and zebras grazing on the tableland. And count the warthogs with their tail up as antennae, coursing their way.

Witnessing a migration requires you to hop from one probable spot, a long wait and then another hop. But, migration is unpredictable. One moment the wildebeest and zebras are munching on grass, and the next, seized by a switch of some collective brains, thousands make a mad dash to cross the river. And this uncertainty is equally responded by visitors on both sides of the river. One moment, there is a grind of long wait and the next, they get active with their cameras.

The migration starts with a sudden drift of impulse. Some random wildebeest jumps in the water and triggers the event. And then, the zebras join in. They are usually more calculative with their steps and rarely the initiators. Hungry crocodiles, waiting to snap at these beasts, get into action; a moving feast occasionally turns into a problem of plenty. More wildebeests die as a result of stampede and roaring waters than getting killed by the crocodiles. It is all in a dramatic frenzy, columns of panicked wildebeests leap into the water to battle across and crocodiles swiftly dart towards them. 

For next 30 minutes, everyone remains stalled to witness the action. It moves the onlookers too, the impatience on their faces turns to keen excitement. Wildlife enthusiasts get ready with pocket-sized cameras to higher zoom, telescopic cameras to catch the moment. And then, as inexplicably as it begins, it stops. And it stops you too, moving your spirits.

Being in Mara is like reading an amazingly written script. Every turn has a new tale. No doubt, Mara is one of the most spectacular experiences. Most visitors take this interaction with the wild world from their hotel camps and come out for the game drives. You can add more adventure to your trip and do solo camping in Mara. There are designated places to do so and you have to mandatorily take a forest guard with you equipped with a gun, in case of any unforeseen wild encounter. And all it takes is an extra $30 on your park fees ($70 for foreign nationals). Get a good camping gear (endless options in Nairobi), set up a camp and as night descends, fuel your fire, watch the starry night, prepare your barbeque and talk about the next day’s routes. And as the night advances and shadows become long and creepy, sounds from the jungle amplify and the feeling of not being alone sets in.