An island vanishes...

Akash Mehrotra

Tucked between Subansiri and Kherketia rivers, fondled by the mighty Brahmaputra, lies Majuli, simply inescapable from the imagination of travelers. It is an island of pristine antiquity, offering vistas of freedom, unlocking the hidden mysteries, exciting imaginations, swaying as the river swells, breathing in its vast openness and smiling at every bell that chimes in the numerous monasteries that dot this land.

An expanse of land nursed by the fortunes and fury of Brahmaputra, Majuli’s story is as sublime as the river it stands on. A story of innocence, optimism and disenchantment is played out over this land every day. A typical day is lived in rituals, in paddy fields, in the colourful tapestry of Assamese silk and breathes through the fisherman’s mesh. Life is quite simple here, but elusive as the island is slowly disappearing, some inches every year, losing itself to the river that nurtures it, living its full circle of life. Majuli is fast eroding and disappearing. Already reduced to a third of its original size, it is predicted that Majuli will disappear within 20 years.

To get to this largest river island, a huge ferry is boarded from Jorhat in Upper Assam. A slow boat ride of two hours is spent in breathing in the freshness and the rawness of the riverine landscape created by the mightiest of Indian rivers. And when you are in Majuli, ditch both the vehicle and the guide to explore the island, hire a bicycle and cycle your way through the cultural ambience of the island.

Majuli is the seat of neo-Vaishnavite culture, an offshoot of Hinduism. Since 15th century, followers of Saint Srimanta Sankardeva have been building monasteries or satras here. Twenty satras stand today, with almost twice the number lost to the river. These ancient buildings pulsate with dance and songs and have to a great extent defined the lifestyle in Majuli.

More than the satras, Majuli lives in its people and their lives. Be ready to immerse in images of rural life, wide open grasslands where a shepherd is tending to his cows or goats, fields where farmers are busy in harvesting, kids are playing marbles or grazing cattle on the meadows — imagery that seems like stories of yesteryears, but very much a part of today’s Majuli, undisturbed by changing times. Little halts at places to breathe in these moments are a must. The in-scape gives you a feeling that culture, art and nature have conspired to restore our faith in the beauty of simple things. At times, get off the cycle to meet friendly locals, swap stories with them. They can take you to the more beautiful parts of the island, places off the road.

Visit the Mishing tribe, who migrated from Arunachal and are probably among the most colourful tribes of Assam, and who still hold strong beliefs in animism. Mishing tribe is also known for their preparation of Gadu, which is a famous type of blanket and requires a lot of skill and knowledge to be made and for weaving the most elegant Assamese tapestries. And above all, they seem to be the most welcoming people one can meet.

Majuli goes to sleep early and it is not rare to wake up in the island by a horn blast, followed by drums and then cymbals. That’s how Majuli wakes, soft prayer chanting mixed with bird songs. It wakes up lazily, praying, probably making a plea to Lord Vishnu to save the island before it is too late and then sheds the slumber with a lal-chai (red tea). You could try and savour it by the river bank, delight in the beauty of its waters… one more time before it disappears.