Spoils from an alpine countryside

Supriya Sehgal

Home to the jagged Matterhorn peak that graces the packaging of Toblerone, the famous chocolate, Zermatt’s draw lies in offering skiing and climbing enthusiasts a flavour of untamed wilderness and dramatic views of mountains stacked behind each other. The town lies snug in the embrace of snow-covered peaks, below which, thick sheets of grey clouds threaten to pierce open any time. Even for climbing purists, the cosy cafes, plush mountain lodges and a fascinating array of restaurants offer a relief from the tough terrain. The town is so small that sightseeing icons restaurants and pubs are a mere stroll away. 

The ski town of Zermatt lies in the shadow of the Matterhorn peak, its crest painted in fiery yellow at sunrise and sunset, looking from over an uncrowded horizon. The car-free town sits at the southern edge of Switzerland, with the high snowy Alps shading Italy on the other side. The lack of cars is of no concern at all, as the walk friendly town has some of the best networks of alpine cable cars, gondolas, and cog railways in the country. 

Zermatt’s debut on the hiking circuit was over 150 years ago, when English tourists turned their gaze on the Matterhorn in 1860. It was Edward Whymper, after several failed ascents from the Italian side, looked at summiting the peak from Zermatt in 1865 — and succeeded. The team started with gusto, but the expedition turned pale when four members lost their lives. The nostalgia and importance of the first ascent is recorded in the city’s many sights, most importantly, the museum and the cemetery. The museum closed all the loops on the various stories we had heard till now, with exhibits and information. The underground museum also revealed glimpses of life in the 19th century. A poignant reminder and fitting homage to the climbers who died trying to scale the Matterhorn and other peaks around, lies in the form of the Mountaineers’ Cemetery, close to the museum. It houses graves of about 50 women and men who perished from 19th century till now. One memorial is particularly striking. It belongs to a young climber with a heart-tugging inscription: “I chose to climb.”

More spirited activities include the hikes to the nearby villages, skiing in the winters and trips to homegrown cheese factories. Ta¨schalp’s Cheese Factory is especially famous. Located on the shadow of the 14730 feet high Täschhorn Mountain, it is a home-run cheese unit, 5 km from Zermatt. A short train and car ride lands one in the verdant meadows filled with alpine herbs. It is no surprise that the cows that chew on this grass produce the most flavourful cheese one can find.

The town is ideal to sample the atmospheric and inviting interiors of the Valais style bars and restaurants, with menus hinged on organic alpine cuisine. The laidback vibe and the rustic charm adds to the ambience as one digs in to the classic cheese fondue and rösti (potato fritters).