‘Same, same but different’

Roopinder Singh

The absence of honking is striking. More so, when you are stuck in an infrequent traffic jam on way to Ubud from the Denpasar International Airport. Cars are similar to the ones in India — mainly Suzuki, Hyundai and Toyota vehicles. Swarms of scooters can be seen on no-lane roads. People drive on the same side of the road as in India, but they stop at intersections, wait courteously for other vehicles to turn before they move, even as traffic policemen are seldom seen.

Who wants to see a traffic policeman when there is so much else to capture your attention — the verdant greens, sculpted flowerpots on roads, intricate statues on roundabouts,  tiled red rooftops that stand out against the azure sky and the temples that dot the landscape. Clear warm beaches that are full of tourists, often Australians, who fly a short distance to this sun-soaked land just eight degrees south of the Equator.

Statues are everywhere. You observe that their lower part is covered with saput poleng, the black and white chequered cloth that weaves in the two eternal opposites — the good and the evil — into a harmonious whole. Some representing deities are covered in golden cloth. Also visible are the offerings, on tiny coconut-leaf trays, often small, placed in front of statues of deities, at higher and lower level, with flowers, eatables, and cigarettes sharing the space with incense sticks!

With a relaxed pace of life and well-developed tourist infrastructure, Bali is host to backpackers and well-heeled travellers alike, with much to offer. “Same, same but different,” is a phrase you hear often, and you can relate to it because there is familiarity and difference, a shared culture that has its unique flavour.

Buildings often have a large free spaces between the roof and the walls, allowing for good ventilation, and public places just have roller blinds (like chiks), instead of walls, which can be pulled down when it rains, or when there is too much sun.

The province that largely depends on tourist-related income, besides traditional agriculture, has many attractions, most of these natural. The beach is what attracted people to Kuta in the first place. And this is where the action is. Nice surf, lounge chair, drinks galore, with the ever-present beers, the local Bintang comfortably rubbing shoulders with its international counterparts. Es Kelapa Muda is iced coconut water with a dash of lime and ice in the fruit.

Young revellers dance away the night at the many nightclubs that attract the party crowd to Kuta and Semniyak. The scene is vibrant, and at times, wild. During the day, as you negotiate your way around to the beach through a narrow streets lined by shacks, you are reminded of such shops near Delhi’s Indian Oil Building. Horse carriage riders may greet you with “Namaste,” and the beach boy spout an impromptu rendering of a Bollywood song. Modern shopping malls and hotels line up the beach front, and even though crowded, it is full of friendly locals, all trying to sell something or the other to visitors.

Sunset is arriving, the beach is crowded, and you can well spend time either surfing, or watching the surfers, sipping your drink, thinking about Bebek Goreng, the deep-fried duck that you are planning for dinner. Topped off with Bubuh Injin, the black-rice pudding with coconut milk, a kheer, but different.

Host to the world

Ubud is the cultural centre. Fine performances from the Mahabharata, Balinese style, naturally, echo the “Same, same but different” style as then, the eternal fight between the forces of good (the Barong) and the bad (the Ragada) is fought on stage. Artists come from far and wide with their paintings, and the area has a good number of workshops that produce intricate carvings in various types of wood and traditional silversmith families whose workshops demonstrate the way in which their creations take shape. Naturally, they try to steer you towards their sales areas. The Batik workshops are interesting, but wares simply too touristy. On the other hand, local lace adorns fabrics that make for attractive garments.

Balinese sculpture was once entirely religion-oriented till tourists descended. Now, the beautiful statues carved out of soft volcanic rock, are to be seen everywhere, even restaurants, and they could depict musicians, dancers or even some bizarre creations for specific tourist interests.

The food in Bali restaurants is a fascinating mix of Indian, Chinese and local cuisines. Much of what you get is pan-Asian, rather than strictly local, and emphasis is on the lunch. Rice is the staple, and you can’t go wrong with Nasi Goreng or fried rice.

 As expected, there are plenty of options for staying; much depends on your budget and inclination. Many go to Bali to escape the humdrum of everyday life, and for them, there are beautiful resorts away from the town, where you can be one with nature, cut off from the world, yet have all creature comforts available at short notice. For those who love to surf, there are beaches. Culture vultures can explore the myriad forms of expression that the people of Bali use while interacting with the world around them and beyond.