A bite of bun maska and chai

Kavita Kanan Chandra

When the annual Kala Ghoda Arts Festival in Mumbai conducted a guided heritage culinary walk of Irani cafes through the historic Fort area of Mumbai, the history buffs and gastronomes made a beeline for it. The opportunity to enjoy the distinct and intricate Parsi cuisine in vintage Irani cafes while the curator of the heritage walk, Krutika Garg threw light on the history of its emergence was exciting. The Iranis came after the Parsis in late 19th century but they were the ones to start tea houses and café to serve Irani chai and Parsi cuisine. As Bombay expanded under British, so did the Irani cafes numbering up to 1400 at one time.

Today you have hardly few of them so visit these before they vanish. You can start by walking down the leafy lanes of the European-style business district of Ballard estate that was designed by Scottish architect George Wittet. Strolling towards the imposing building of Asiatic Library swathe in white, take a right turn to visit the Jimmy Boy restaurant.

Among all the newly introduced cuisines in their menu, it is best known for Lagan Nu Bhonu. This is the closest you get to eat a traditional Parsi wedding feast. Served on patra (banana leaf), you get a wide array of Parsi fare like Saas ni Macchhi (pomfrets in sweet and sour sauce) or patra ni macchhi (steamed pomfret). The next course follows with chicken (Salli Margi or Margi na farcha) and mutton pulav. The sago wafers, Parsi rotli, Gajar Mewa Nu Achar (a tangy carrot and dry fruits pickle), Lagan Nu Custurd or kulfi are complimentary helpings.

While gorging on food, you can’t miss the high ceilings, wooden beams and wood-panelled staircase. Most of the no-frills functional Irani cafeteria have these characteristics. Some also have the characteristic large tables covered with green or red checkered tablecloths, glass tops, bentwood chairs and paintings of Zarathustra.

Coming to cuisine, well dhansak remains the unquestionable ambassador of the Parsi community. However, each of the surviving Irani cafes and bakeries are today known for their specialty offering. The queue in front of the Brittania & Co. (established in 1923) on the Scott road reassure that Irani café still stands strong. Enjoy their berry pulav with red barberries imported from Iran and dhansak (fragrant daal with veggies or meat accompanied with brown rice) while the endearing nonagenarian owner, Boman Kohinoor, will regale you with anecdotes of famous diners.

Sip some raspberry soda and end the meal with lagan nu custard (crème caramel custard).

What better way than to wind up the Parsi culinary tour by visiting the Yazdani Bakery and restaurant (estb. 1955) bustling with patrons having chai and bun maska (the white buns slathered in melted butter) that is to be dunked in hot tea and eaten. Enjoy the tea, savour the aroma of freshly baked buns and breads and don’t forget to pack their specialties like mawa cake, multigrain bread, Shrewsbury biscuits and apple pie. Other iconic Irani cafes in Mumbai are Kayani & Co. at Marine lines, which is the oldest surviving Irani cafe (established in 1904), B Merwan & Co at Grant Road East (estb 1914), Koolar & Co at Matunga (estb 1932), Sassanian Boulangerie at Marine Lines (estb 1913), Cafe Military at Fort (estb 1952) and Café Excelsior at Fort. The Irani Sweet Shop on Imamwada road in Dongri, which is open for only two weeks during Navroz, is 104-year-old.