A many splendoured city : The Tribune India

Join Whatsapp Channel

A many splendoured city

Nothing prepares you for Varanasi! No matter how much you may read up about it — on blogs, in travel or history books and see in documentaries and movies, but Varanasi will take you by surprise.

A many splendoured city

Thousands of visitors flock the ghats every day



Aradhika Sharma 

Nothing prepares you for Varanasi! No matter how much you may read up about it — on blogs, in travel or history books and see in documentaries and movies, but Varanasi will take you by surprise. It overwhelms with its myriad sights, sounds, smells, tastes and philosophies, which spontaneously spring from the intertwined juxtaposition of life and death; of different religions and people. The city welcomes thousands of visitors in its accepting embrace — pilgrims, aghoris and naga sadhus, philosophers, musicians, artists, and tourists from all parts of the world who flock to the banks of the Ganga (and the gupt Assi river). Every person experiences the essence of Varanasi in a varied manner: For some, it is regenerative while some come seeking death; for some, it is a spiritual yatra while some come in pursuit of gastronomical delights and shopping. Initially, a few find the frenetic and exuberant energy of Kashi intimidating but colourful, captivating and culturally rich — this is the soul of India! Over centuries, the city has been known by several names: Rudravasa, Mahashamshana Kashi, Benaras and Varanasi. Unpredictable and astonishing, one thing is for sure: if you visit Varanasi — the oldest living city in the world — you’ll never be able to get it out of your system.

many Ghats to nirvana

It is said: “Subah-e-Benaras (Morning of Varanasi) and Shaam-E-Awadh (Evening of Lucknow) mashoorhain”. The chiming of the bells, wafts of incense and the chants of the priests on the ghats at 3 am gives truth to that.

Kashi has 87 ghats, most built after 1700 AD, one leading to the other. Starting from Assi ghat to Adi Keshawa ghat, each ghat has its own character, rituals, history and mythology. While most are used for ceremonies, pujas and Ganga snan, Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats are purely cremation sites. It is said those who are cremated in Manikarnika ghat, one of the holiest among the sacred riverfronts, will find instant salvation.

Harishchandra ghat (known as Adi Manikarnika) is the oldest Kashi cremation site. The Brahmins of Tulsi ghat and the Pandits of Assi ghat prefer Harishchandra ghat for their cremation. Pyres burn here all day and all night. It is usual to see a body being carried through the town and brought to the ghats to be dipped in the holy river before cremation, which is conducted by the ‘Doms’. This community has traditionally been the custodian of cremation grounds. Embers to light the pyre are fetched from the undying fire of Kalu Dom Raja, the fabled keeper of the holy flame. Dasashwamedh ghat, the holiest and the most populous ghat in Varanasi, is quite different in atmosphere. The famous Ganga aarti is performed here every evening at dusk to welcome Lord Shiva. Thousands gather on land and in the river (in boats) to participate. Priests conduct the ceremony with camphor, incense and agni and devotees float thousands of earthen lamps in the Ganges. It’s beautiful and very spiritual. 

Assi ghat is the most ‘happening’ ghat in Varanasi. The houses in the streets that lead up to it have been turned into trendy little homestays where foreign students, musicians and chroniclers like to live. Morning aarti is performed on Assi ghat. And tourists can take a boat ride on the river thereafter to experience the sunrise — Subah-e-Benaras — over the Ganges. Probably the most tranquil is the Tulsi ghat, named after Tulsidas, who is said to have composed parts of Ramcharitmanas at Varanasi. Sitting by old peepal tree atop the ghat, amid a cluster of small temples, you can quietly contemplate while watching the Ganga flowing by. 

a matter of faith 

There’s a temple in every nook and cranny of Varanasi. Big and small, these have legends attached to them. The most famous is the Kashi Vishvanath Temple — one of the 12 Jyotirlingas, the holiest of Shiva temples. The surprise element is that there are many mosques as well. Most of the weavers of the gorgeous Varanasi sarees belong to the Muslim community. Kashi is also a Jain 

tirtha. as four of Jain Tirthankaras were born here. The Buddhist presence is ensured by the closeness of Sarnath. There is peaceful coexistence and total acceptance among the communities.

Of dance and music

Varanasi joined the global bandwagon of Unesco “Cities of Music” under the Creative Cities Network in 2015. Not surprising, since the presiding deity of Varanasi is Lord Shiva — the lord of dance and music. Varanasi has a rich history and treasure of music. The centre of Dhrupad style of singing, the city has seen great patrons of the arts over the centuries. 

The contribution and styles by great musicians made Varanasi the home of Varanasi thumri, dadra, chaiti, hori, bhairavi, kajri, tarana, ghato, tappa, etc. Even today, festivals are held where maestros perform. If you scan notice boards and advertisements in the local papers, you are sure to identify a fewperformances which could be happening at a ghat, a private home or a music school. 

on The food street

A gastronome’s paradise, Varanasi offers you delights that could satiate the greediest. Partake of a breakfast (kaleva) of poori-sabzi (Rs 10 to 20), jalebi with curd (Rs 10 to 20) and kachori (Rs 5). In winter, you will get malaio (milk foam topped with pistachio nuts). Delicious! The lassi shops get set in the morning from 3 am till late at night. And what lassi! Thick, creamy, sweetened and served in earthen kullads! If, however, you ask for thandai, be aware that it will contain a certain amount of bhang. There’s even a Sarkari Bhang ki Dukaan near Dasashwamedh ghat. The tangy-sweet chaats of Varanasi are not to be missed. Try chena dahi vada, tamatar ki chaat, paani puri ke rakam, aloo bonda, papri chaat, palak chaat, dahi wale golgappe, samosa chaat…phew!

Try a khichdi for lunch or try a Marwari Vaishno thali, litti-chokha or sattu-ka-parantha. Remember though, that tea-time savouries and sweets await!

For dinner, you can have a continental meal (thanks to the influence of the hippies and foreigners). Try the wood-fired pizzas available of Vatika Pizzeria on Assi ghat. You can find Italian vegan food at Aum Café. Phulwari Café, started by a Jordanian, serves labannah with pita, salads, pastas, lasagna and moussaka! Every time is chai time! Served in tiny portions, there’s a lemon tea option available as well. The Banarsi lemon tea is basically black tea brewed with some desi masala and served with a twist of lemon. Tastes like warm masala nimbu paani. Finish every meal with the ubiquitous Banarsipaan. Aha!

pulsating with life

Varanasi is energising and rhythmic but the crowds are something else! The traffic in the city is maddening while in the galis of the old town, you chance upon sadhus smoking chillums, dogs suckling cows, a dead rat on the road, crows arguing raucously; you may have to sidle past a wet, slime covered buffalo or duck greedy monkeys and pandas! Frequent processions and festivals add to the buzzing activity. The locals are warm and accepting and they love to talk and swap stories. 

The paanwala, the boatman, the man taxi driver, the pundits, the woman cleaning the temple, the woman purchasing sweets alongside you — have a philosophical attitude and, given a chance, will happily expound on politics, life and times.

Indulge in the talk! It’s quintessentially Varanasi!

Top News

Relief for Delhi CM, High Court bins plea for his ouster

Relief for Delhi CM, High Court bins plea for his ouster

Special court extends Kejriwal’s ED custody till April 1


Cities

View All