Beyond the Black Forest

Niku Sidhu

Growing up, black forest was just another cake. That it was a Josef Keller invention from the 1920s, masterfully created with layers of cherry-schnapps-soaked dark chocolate gateau topped by cream, chocolate flakes and cherries, was a later revelation. Geographically, however, the Black Forest is part of south-west Germany, named thus for the impenetrable canopy of fir and pine trees that barely allow any sun through. The Romans called it “Silva Nigra”. The hilly woodlands, no larger than 200 km by 60 km, are criss-crossed by a labyrinthine network of lengthy footpaths like the E1 and include a whopping 23,000 km of mountain biking and skiing trails.

Interestingly, they have been maintained and signposted by the Black Forest Society for more than 130 years now. Feldberg is the highest peak at 1493 metres above the sea level and the birthplace of the wooden ski, ski lift and ski club. It still boasts of one of the largest ski resorts beyond the Alps.

No excursion here is complete till one drives through the forest on the panoramic 50 km stretch from Waldkirch to Hinterzarten. It offers fabulous vistas of not just Black Forest peaks and Rhine Valley, but also Vosges Mountains in neighbouring France and the Swiss Alps, all within a relatively short distance. Another 65 km drive from Baden-Baden in the north, along the B500 winds up to Buhlerhohe peak and runs along the eastern edge through undulations between 800 and 1000 metres before ending at Freudenstadt.

The Clock Museum in Furtwangen is exemplary of the German spirit for excellence as it traces the history of watchmakers and development of clocks since their inception in the region. The celebrated cuckoo clock was perhaps a consequence of long winters and the existing wood carving cottage industry. This was followed by singing bird boxes, which began to be produced in the 18th century.

The Open Air Museum in Gutach in reconstructed farmhouses showcases folk life from the 17th century. Cattle and people lived in close proximity, water was drawn from wells and farmers had to work in smoke filled rooms with little light. The youngest in the family inherited farm and money and was responsible for employing gainfully other members of the family. Many farms have been traced back to the year 1700; some of which stand modernised and available as holiday homes.

Triberg lays claim to the highest waterfall at 163 metres with over seven cascades. Beautifully illuminated in the evenings, it was a favourite of Count Otto von Bismarck who visited for the tranquillity when he required a break from politicking in Berlin. Look out for the Bismarck monument. Another attraction, the Triberg Café Schaefer has been reproducing Keller’s original recipe of the Black Forest Cherry Torte since the time the owning family was gifted it.

The Black Forest is also home to countless mineral spas, a centuries old tradition here. Baden-Baden was the playground of Europe’s elite, soaking in the thermal springs for their curative properties. Royals and aristocrats enjoyed the French styled, Palace of Versailles inspired, casino here. Interestingly, gambling was illegal in France in the 1850s and the casino was conveniently placed over the Franco-German border. Take a tour of the casino or sit by the statue of Emperor Caracalla, who was cured of his rheumatism 2000 years ago.

The largest natural lake in the Black Forest, scenic Lake Titisee was carved out by a glacier. Two kms in length and a kilometre wide with a depth of 40 metres, it is ideal for sailing, swimming and boating, as well as cycling, or simply strolling along its promenade. A doughnut-shaped boat, usually a 10-seater, is a popular and fun way to traverse the lake for five Euros an hour. Be sure to pick a bratwurst with your choice of sauce at a mere three bucks.

On exploration, the Black Forest reveals customs beyond the clichés of its famed gateau, ham, cuckoo clocks and Bollenhut, the ladies hat topped with pom-poms designed suspiciously like the Black Forest cake. Red pom-poms are worn by single women and black by the wedded. The forest is home to 17 Michelin starred restaurants, the one in Hotel Adler having defended the award since Michelin Guide first started ratings in Germany in 1966.

Freiburg, the “Jewel of the Black Forest”, a university town is an ideal base for exploring the region. Munster Cathedral’s 11th century spires and gargoyles above the market square invitingly lead you to the beautiful triptych at the altar by Albrecht Durer protégé Hans Baldung Grien. Climb to the top of the Gothic church tower, which miraculously survived bombings during the Second World War for spectacular views. Achtung! Don’t fall into the canals along the city streets: locals believe you will marry a resident if you do!

MYTHS AND LEGENDS 

The region of lakes, castles and ruins is bound to breed fantastic legends like those of the golden-haired Rapunzel, and siblings Hanzel and Gretel by the Grimm Brothers. Myths too, of sorcerers and wizards, who could fire bullets without missing a target, even in the dark. The wolf that caught a sheep each night till the owner stayed awake and shot it; only to find a citizen lying wounded next morning. The apparitions of two monks, who haunted a monastery were captured in sacks, taken to the top of Feldberg Mountain and thrown into Lake Feldsee. A brother forcing his sister into marrying a wicked Count is mysteriously led by female dwarves to the mouth of a cave where falling rocks bury both men.