Muziris: A flavourful spice story

Anand & Madhura Katti

Kerala is known as the land of spices. The newly developed Muziris circuit in Kerala is a peek into the fascinating revelations on India’s dominating role in spice export millennia ago. Muziris, the key port in Kerala, connected India with 31 countries in Europe, Asia and Far East. India’s spice trade with the world flourished for thousands of years until tsunami struck the port nearly 600 years ago and ruined the trading hub. However, the trend of exchange of culture, cuisine and traditions continued beyond spice trade. Now, a meticulous effort by the concerned authorities, along with the United Nations World Tourism Organisation, has brought the history alive through marked sights and interactive exchanges.

Visitors can board the dedicated hop-on, hop-off air-conditioned boat on Periyar River to connect with the history of Muziris that unfolds at seven museums, a few landmarks and forts. Temples, synagogues, churches, mosques and palaces link 2,000 years of Kerala’s history. The choice of cycling between the sights or travelling by road also exists. Different circuits are also proposed by the project co-ordinators for the convenience of tourists.

Pattanam museum, 25 km from Kochi, is a good starting point. Situated among lush green environs of a village, the simple-looking building houses a treasure of excavations that establishes many facts about the international exchange. Antiquities unearthed at Pattanam tell about an ancient urban culture. Excavated wharf structure and a 2,000-year-old canoe are precious links. Terracotta toilet features, ring wells, beads of glass, semi-precious stones and parts of moulds used in making beads are neatly displayed with their ascertained time and age. Gold, lead, nails of iron and copper and glass decorative indicate at a well-developed civilisation.

In the first century, Jews were the first migrants to Kerala. They had come in search of a safe place after being chased by Christians. They also brought along their distinct culture, traditions and knowledge. The Paravur Synagogue built in 1615 now features a museum of early Jewish life in Kerala.

Nearby is Paliam Kovilakam, a two-storey traditional home of Paliathu Achans (Prime Ministers to the Kings of Kochi), which has now been converted into a museum of Kerala history. Next to it is a typical slope roof Malayali house, constructed according to the ancient vastu science of architecture. This is the Kerala Lifestyle Museum, which has household stuff in a comfortable space for different activities of a progressive family. A granary, big verandas in the centre and traditional kitchen utensils are a delight to see. Paliam Kovilakam and Paliam Nalakettu museums are 22 km from Kochi.

Paravur market is another interesting sight. Held since ancient time, the market comes alive two days in a week now. The Kottappuram or Kodungallur market is also similar to Paravur market, but is held on different days of the week. The market established in 18th century by the then king of Kochi has lost much of its former glory as a thriving nerve centre of Kerala’s foreign trade, but still functions in a modern guise. Kottappuram fort is a significant sight on the Muziris heritage circuit. Earlier called Cranganore Fort, it served as a strategic point for the Portuguese, who had annexed the ancient seaport of Muziris in 1521. The Dutch, who captured it in 1666, and Tipu Sultan (in the 18th century) demolished many portions of the fort. It was later bought by King Ramavarma Dharmaraja of Travancore. There is a boxed skeleton at the fort that was unearthed recently. The 500-year-old human remains are testified as that of a 20-year-old European male, who died of natural causes. Kottappuram Waterfront is beautiful with an eat street where one can enjoy Kerala delicacies such as steamed coconut and rice flour sweets.

Many popular Kerala dishes have been introduced by ancient traders and visitors. Idiyappam, steamed rice vermicelli, is actually a gift from the Dutch; many of the fish preparations prevalent here were introduced by the Portuguese and some spicy meat dishes by the Islamic visitors.

Islam and Christianity too came to Kerala very early through its port and were well-established before spreading to other regions of the country. Their influence can be studied at The Islamic History Museum in Cheraman Juma Masjid complex, at the Museum on Christian Religious Art & Traditions in North Paravur and at the Syrian Christian History Museum in Kodungallur.

Twenty more museums, including one on handlooms, a traditional art forms performance centre and maritime and aquatic life museums are being planned for the Muziris heritage circuit, which is sure to make it a prominent tourist attraction. Be among the first to experience it.