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Aditi Garg

A good recipe is an heirloom passed from generation to generation and usually guarded zealously. But in times when everything and then some more — is shared obsessively online, can recipes survive this onslaught. While the dime-a-dozen recipe books have been replaced by recipe blogs, websites and apps, food connoisseurs have been sorely missing the recipes from well-thumbed, spice-stained pages of a tattered diary with recipes from generations ago. Not just that, there has been an increasing audience who is interested in not just how to cook a particular food but also the history, customs, traditions and significance of varied foods and recipes. The result is the rise of the coffee table cookbook; a book with recipes that goes beyond just that.

Online onslaught

The information highway has opened up access to everyone in every corner of the world. Decide upon a cuisine, type in a few words and you can be a chef dishing up global dishes. Imagine the ease of being able to type in a few ingredients and getting recipes that will incorporate those very ingredients. Or ask for menu suggestions according to the course being served or the occasion. The internet does not let you down and in times when space saved is space created, not having to stock hundreds of cookbooks is a quite desirable aspect.

There was a time when you could buy recipe books in a handy format for a few bucks and learn to rustle up new dishes. But every book would have only a few recipes that you liked and had to buy more to add to your repertoire as a cook. Having made a household name with his cookery show, Khanakhazana, Sanjeev Kapoor, reinvented himself with series of recipe books. Those were times when people awaited the next title from cookbook authors of the likes of Tarla Dalal and Nita Mehta. But readily available recipes online at blogs, websites and apps meant troubled waters for these booklets and books.

Channeling interest

Interest in recipe books may have waned but interest in cooking hasn't. There are people and authors who love food too much not to talk and write about it. But the big change has been that their love for food is not restricted to the recipes alone and has also embraced the culture, traditions and mores of the society where the particular food originated. Such books offer way more beyond just recipes and are food for the soul.

Sabita Radhakrishna, author of Annapurni — Heritage Cuisine from Tamil Nadu, says, "The internet is full of recipes but these are neither authentic nor do these work well. Annapurni and my earlier book Tamil Cookbook, Aharam, are both doing very well. People appreciate the fact that a lot of effort has been put into research. Each book takes a year or two to research. The recipes are 75-80 year old and have been personally collected from old people and then standardised. Along with that, the books give you a sense of the culture and history of that community. These books are not merely cookbooks but give a rich insight into the lives of the people who cook these meals. A scrapbook format is used to showcase the old pictures. There are many snippets of information."

Innovative approach

Book publishers have also taken note of the rise in popularity of this genre of cookbooks. Coffeetable cookbooks are booming and are being lapped up by avid cooks, history buffs and voracious readers alike. In the world of too many online cooks and recipes, these are the perfect ingredient to a satisfying meal. Neelam Narula, managing editor of Roli Books, says, "These cookbooks essentially talk about the history of certain cuisines. There are several regional and cultural influences that can be seen that are starkly missing in the recipes available online. Online recipes are too impersonal as they just state the ingredients and method whereas cookbooks are usually themed with elaborate text giving the reader a perspective about the place that dish comes from. Also, many of our cookbooks are family recipes that add another dimension to food. These introduce us to how certain families have altered traditional recipes as per their style."

Books that offer more than methods and techniques, adding value beyond recipes, are the hottest sellers. Titles like Tiffin by Rukmini Srinvas from Rupa Publications are a delightful read as it is in equal parts a cookbook and a graphic novel, teamed with wonderful storytelling. A recipe on its own holds little charm for today's generation; they want to know more about it, be stimulated with appetising photographs and compelled to cook to be a part of a particular culture.

Chef's choice

When housewives need recipes, they turn to the internet; but many of them vouch for their old, treasured tomes that guide them through the most complex delicacies. And what do chefs do when they look for inspiration? Masterchef Season 2 contestant Jyoti Arora from Amritsar assisted celebrated Michelin-star chef Vikas Khanna in his cookbook Flavours of Amritsar and also contributed two recipes to it. While she too does not think internet recipes are any good, she says cookery shows are a good source of inspiration and is all for following recipe books. She says, "I am always taking mental notes everywhere I go and have been taught by my mother since childhood, so for the most part cooking for me is instinctive. As ingredients have become available more easily, the possibility of trying out different foods is higher. When trying a new cuisine, it helps to understand cultural background and the relevance of different techniques and ingredients.

Coffeetable cookbooks take you back to the roots. I am currently working on a book that will highlight the recipes from undivided Punjab. It is surprising what a bit of digging into the food history can throw up. After three years of research, there have been some nuggets of information that are worth it. For example, earlier green chilli was not used in the region and the spicy element came from black pepper and a relatively forgotten spice, pippali." It is endearing information, along with taste, about the food that binds us to it. Between the pages and beyond the dishes, it is the human element that draws us in.

Know your recipes online

Apps: You can bring variety to your menu with a few apps in your smartphone or tab.