Thriving in a man’s world

Protima Tiwary 

The exponential growth of the food industry is a reason to cheer about. New restaurants with newer themes and fancier menus keep popping up in urban India. There is inclusion of world cuisine and sharing of local ingredients with the world in turn. While everything about the hospitality industry seems to be touching high notes, there is one reality in stark contrast — gender inequality, with men taking up all the important roles. A handful of women are trying to change the narrative though. Sohini Bhattacharyya being one of them. A head chef at Elephant and Co Gastropub in Pune, she is the mastermind behind the fusion menu that has become the talk of the nightlife circles in the city. 

She gladly serves siracha chicken wings and chicken chettinad with waffle dosa, dishes that qualify for food porn. And then begins to talk about pursuing her dream of becoming a chef. 

When did your journey with food start? 

I always enjoyed my food as a kid, and would wonder how the beautiful dishes came to life with basic ingredients. I would watch my mother cook, and gradually started assisting her as I got older.  I then took to baking as well. My journey with food started in my own kitchen. 

Did you always know you would become a chef? 

The aptitude tests that I took in school revealed that I would make a great lawyer. But there was something that was holding me back; my mind kept going back to food. I decided to study culinary science. Initially discouraged by relatives and friends, — everyone asserted that it is a profession for men — but I was well-supported by my father.  He would say, “If you love something, you need to put your heart and soul into it. Things will fall in place, money will follow.” The advice kept me going. I enrolled for a course at IHM Ahmedabad and earned experience with brands like The Taj, JW Marriot and Oberoi. 

Does the role of head chef excite you? 

Food guarantees an instant reaction. People either love food, or hate it. It is not like an office job where you have to wait for a year to get your annual appraisal. Your efforts are scored within minutes after the food is served. I love the challenge of creating new dishes and seeing them get popular. Cooking also helps me relive some happy moments, those spent with family or special ones. It’s the best reward when people come back demanding a particular dish. There is nothing drab about this job. You got to experience the thrill to believe it.  

What’s your plan for the future?

I want to add to my clientele; I want more people to taste my food.  Other than that, I want to take a year-long break and travel to eat. There is so much food in the world, waiting to be tasted. And on my wish-list is a shack by a beach, popular for good, sumptuous food.

A celebrity chef you would want to work with some day...

I really wish to cook with and learn from chef René Redzepi (from Noma). The way he uses fresh, locally sourced ingredients to create beautiful dishes is magical. Working with him is on my bucket list!