The pull of the golden fort
By Shona Adhikari

I WAS finally able to go to Jaisalmer a little over a year ago. It had been down as a priority on my list of ‘must see’ places, but somehow, though I had visited Jodhpur at least 15 times, I was just not able to find time for the five-hour car journey, that is required to visit Jaisalmer from Jodhpur. However, the day finally came, and it is difficult to describe the sense of excitement that gripped me as we neared the fort.

I remember my very first view of Jaisal’s fort — it literally took my breath away — even though I knew what it would look like. The fact is there is this straight road that leads to Jaisalmer, without any trees or roadside habitation to break the monotony. Then suddenly when one is about 12 km away, the fort comes into view — perched on a table mountain, rising up in the desert sands, like a mirage ...like Ray’s Sonar Kella.

Like a vision out of a fairy story, the fort perched on top of a hill, built out of the rare golden sandstone that is peculiar to the region, gleams like real gold in the sun. And as I was to discover later, inside the fort the intricate carved friezes and jalis seem to glint and turn into golden lace. It does not surprise me in the least, that year after year, countless tourists from all over the world, go home mesmerised after their visits.

Jaisal, the founder of Jaisalmer, was the ruler of the desert citadel of Lodruva, which lay 16 km westward. Conscious that his fortress on the plain was susceptible to invasion, Jaisal wandered in the neighbourhood to find a more secure vantage point. Local legend relates that a Brahmin hermit living by a spring, overlooked by the triple-peaked hill known as Trikuta, had foretold that a town would be built by the spring, and a citadel on top of the hill.

True to prophecy, Jaisal built Jaisalmer in1156, and the inhabitants of Lodruva, now unprotected, also moved to Jaisal’s new town-beginning the turbulent history of Jaisalmer, or ‘the hill of Jaisal’. It took seven years to build the fort, the bastions of which, rise 30 feet above the rock. The rock itself rises 250 feet above the plain. A second stage of construction took place around 1577, when three fine gateways were added. At this time, a second wall was erected parallel to the first, but only 15 ft high. Both Hindu and Jain temples were built within. Later in 1633, a further 92 bastions were added, each with a sentry’s window and a platform from which cannon could be fired at approaching enemies. The stone cannon balls can still be seen lying on the walls of the bastion.

At the end of the 13th century, Ala-ud-Din Khilji of Delhi, seized Jaisalmer from Jait Singh, but was persuaded that Jaisalmer lay too far away from Delhi to benefit from the ruler’s control. Thereafter a local ‘Rawal’ (the traditional name for a rajah in the region), was appointed as deputy to rule Jaisalmer, with succeeding rulers in Delhi, continuing the tradition set by Khilji.

However, perhaps the most momentous incident was perpetuated by the 15th century ruler Rawal Chachakdeo, who captured the heads of hundreds of Jain families, and agreed to their release only after their families had been brought to settle in Jaisalmer. This certainly assured the long-term prosperity of the city, but in time the Mehtas who became the hereditary prime ministers, rose to prominence over the ruling family itself — to a point where the sovereigns’ indebtedness led to virtual servility.

With the growth of Bombay port, the hazardous overland spice route linking Jaisalmer, lost its importance. Thus it was that in the 19th century Jaisalmer had dwindled in fortune, and in the days of the Raj, Jaisalmer was the least known of the Rajputana principalities. But the very fact that the royal family lacked the funds to modernise, has been the main reason for the attraction of the place, left as it were, frozen in time — in another century. Gradually the population of the city diminished, as people left to find greener pastures. The city population of 1,15,000, dwindled to 22,000 in 1989. Now the population is seasonal, the fort fills up with the arrival of tourists in the winter months.

One enters through the ‘Ganesh Pol’ or the Elephant Gate, from the main market, then up a steep incline paved with large flagstones past ‘Sural Pol’, the Sun Gate. The old palace is opened only by prior appointment. The winding path is wide enough to have permitted four fully armed warriors to ride abreast. Gigantic walls of dry masonry soar above, emphasising the brooding air of impregnable power.

‘Bhointa Pol’, the Turn Gate, stands at a sharp curve in the path, and has been the scene of many a bloody fight. Nearby is a temple of the warlike ‘Goddess Bhawani’, protectress of the warrior Bhattis, who prayed to her before going into battle, with their chilling battle-cry, "Jai Bhawani".

The ‘Hawa Pol’, the Wind Gate, stands as a sentinel to the royal palaces and leads to the main enclosure, the ‘Court of Public Audience’. This is a spacious square, where the Rawal would hear petitions, review troops or entertain guests during weddings and festivals. As one faces the palace, on the left is a white marble throne for the monarch, reached by a flight of carved steps.

Among the most spectacular buildings in the fort is ‘Salim Singh’s Haveli’, the residence of the Prime Minister of Jaisalmer, in the 18th century. The haveli is distinguished by special features. The upper storey, has an intricately carved balcony running round the entire building, created in cantilever style. It is supported by carved brackets and arches. A third storey is known as ‘Moti Mahal’ and consists of 12 delicate arches, following the same design of the lower balconies.

An extensive group of Jain temples dating back to 12th century stand within the fort complex, said to have been built by donations from wealthy families. The temples of Rishabdevji, Sambhavnath and the Ashtapadi Mandir, are the finest in the complex. Entrance to the Rishabdevji Temple is through intricately carved ‘Torans’, or scrolled archways. The ‘Panchdhatu’ or five metal images of the Jain Tirthankars may be seen within the cloistered interior chambers, where only worshippers are allowed to enter. However, there are no restrictions on seeing all the magnificent carvings spread all over the complex, exquisitely carved images of celestial nymphs. Hindu gods and goddesses from the Hindu pantheon cover the exterior walls, ornate pillars, carved spires and ceilings. There is so much embellishment that one has to take it slowly, to be able to imbibe the magnificence of the carvings.

On the road that leads to Jaisalmer, stand the royal cenotaphs of the Rawals, at ‘Burra Bagh’, where the rulers were cremated. Each ‘chattri’ sports a tablet depicting the ruler and recording his ‘Sati’ consorts and concubines. Based on a rocky eminence, this place deserves a visit, not only because of the chattris, but also because it is the best location for photographing the fort.