Sunday, March 18, 2001		Article

A religious place, be it of any faith, has an aura about it. You bow your head in reverence and feel peace within, whatever be your personal faith. So was it when entered the Mattancherri Synagogue in Cochin. Religious antiquity and historical perspective fired my imagination and I quietly slid back in time, walking the pages of history, to know more about the Jews who made India their home.

The history of Jewish links with India dates back to the times of Solomon and Nebuchadnezar. Records of 370AD refer to the Jews living around Musiris (Kodunallur in Kerala), numbering more than 10,000. They were known as Asian Jews or "Black Jews." The "White Jews" or the Sephardic came to Kerala in the 16th century, driven from Spain and Portugal due to inquisition. They formed their separate settlements in Kerala for social and cultural reasons and did not socialise with the "Black Jews". Later, when the Portuguese tightened their hold on Craganore and persecuted the "Black" as well as "White" Jews, both the communities fled the area and sought the protection of the Rajah of Cochin.

The ruler of Travancore and Cochin, a Hindu, was tolerant towards other faiths. He let the Jews settle in Mattancherri where stands the Jewish Town and the Synagogue.

One of the islands of Cochin, Mattancherri is connected with the mainland Ernakulam by bridges as well as by regular ferry services. Hire a ferry and their itinerary will take you to the famous Dutch Palace, and from there you may amble across the typical lanes of Jew Town, to the Synagogue. The street is lined on either side with big wholesale spices shops. A mild fragrance wafts across the lanes transporting one to the times when this area was the centre of Oriental trade in spices. Jew Town is a quaint little settlement with white-washed picture-postcard houses bearing typical Jewish names: Cohen, Koder, Haligiar and so on. A couple of fair-skinned, light-eyed Jews strolling past the street or sitting at the doorsteps, relaxing, oblivious of the tourists who have become a regular feature, can be spotted. At the end of the street stands the famous Synagogue.

The Mattancherri Synagogue, popularly known as the Jewish Synagogue, is the oldest in the Commonwealth. It was built in 1568 and rebuilt in 1664, two years after the Portuguese depredation. The "Jew Town" and the Synagogue have witnessed the thumping march of history. It was sacked, looted, burned by the Portuguese. Most of the records of the White Jews and their migration have been lost in the fire. But, what we see today, though not what it could have been, is enough to fire our imagination. The Synagogue celebrated its 400th anniversary in 1968 and visitors included Indira Gandhi, the then Prime Minister and a large number of Jews from various parts of the world.

The Synagogue, surmounted by clock tower, is richly decorated from within. You take off your shoes, enter a small verandah and get a glimpse of the glittering interior. In the centre is the place for the Rabbi to stand and preach. Huge chandeliers hanging from the ceiling, white tiles with bright blue motifs beneath, comfortable seats around and an old Bible in front of you heighten your curiosity to know more about this place of worship.

The tiles, 1,115 in number, were brought from China. They are hand-painted, but surprisingly no two tiles are alike. These are believed to be a gift from the Maharaja of Travancore and Cochin to the Jews. The Synagogue also treasures ancient scrolls of mosaic law in the tabernacle, golden crowns gifted by the Maharaja, silver lamps presented by the first British Resident to the Court of the Maharaja and a copper plate gifted to the Jews by the local ruler in 379 AD, conveying a large land grant which enabled the community to call Kerala their home.

Today, the Jew community has only 24 individuals residing in Jew Town, the rest having migrated to Israel. There was a time when they numbered in tens of thousands. But mass emigration to Israel and the decrease in the birth of males have affected the community. The remaining members have no plans to leave India as they feel quite at home here. The community celebrates all Jewish festivals Passover, Purim and Sabbath. They assemble in the Synagogue and hold a service. Although there is no Rabbi, all elders are qualified to perform marriages and other religious ceremonies. No doubt the community has dwindled in number but the beautifully maintained Synagogue, the cheerful members showing you around their prized treasures, the white-washed houses, the curio shops selling traditional lamps, urns and weights and measures, all speak of a happier time. The co-existence of the Jews, their festivals celebrated with gusto and the Synagogue are a living symbol of the tolerance with which India received all religions and her large-heartedness with which she accepted all in her folds.