Sunday, May 27, 2001		Article

Where past meets present
Atul Yadav

INDIA'S capital, a bustling metropolis, Delhi welcomes every one in more than a hundred ways.

Over four millennia, the city has witnessed great civilisations flourish. Many dynasties and rulers have risen to power on its regal soil and it is truly one of the immortal city. Here the past seems to meet the present very aesthetically and boldly. The city has myriad attractions for each cross-section of the people and extends a warm welcome to all the visitors.

From its past, Delhi has undergone a sea change. Shopping arcades have bloomed all over Delhi and it has become one of the largest trading centre in the north.

One of the more fascinating facets of the Delhi is the visibility of its historic past, through its monuments and forts. Of the greater significance is Shahjahanabad, Shah Jahan’s Old Delhi, from where you may have driven past many times, overlooking the massive creation of Shah Jahan, the seventh city of Delhi. It attracts many tourists on account of its grand proportions and splendid constructions in red sand stone.

Shah Jahan started construction of this massive fort in 1638 and it was completed in 1648. An irregular octagon, it is laid out along the river Yamuna and is surrounded by a wall of about 2.4 km in circumference. It varies in height from 18 metres on the riverside to 33 metres on the side of the city. It is surrounded by a moat that is 22.8 metres wide and 9.14 metres deep and was originally connected to a river. Originally the fort, had six entrances of which Lahori Gate and the Delhi Gate are the main gates now. The Lahori Gate, which is now the entrance for the general public and tourists to the fort, got its name from the fact that it faces Lahore. It is from the ramparts of this Lahori Gate, on Independence Day, that our Prime Ministers have unfurled the Indian tricolour and made historic speeches.

On walking past Lahori Gate, once an important commercial and cultural centre, one arrives at the Chatta Chowk or the vaulted arcade. Once an important centre for finest silks, brocades, enamel, silver and gold, the Chatta Chowk had 32 double storeyed arcade shops. But now it houses various shops and leads to a double storeyed gate. The Naqqar Khana (Drum House) where martial music was played five times a day, now houses an "Indian War Memorial Museum" that displays the battle of Panipat and the arms, weapons and dresses used during World War I.

On crossing this gate, the square leads on to Diwan-i-Aam or the hall of public audience. This was the place where the emperor heard the complaints or disputes between his subjects. Originally ornamented with stucco work, it is provided with a "Bengal roof," inlaid with precious stones.

At the northern extremity stands a three-storeyed octagonal tower known as Shah Bhurj, which suffered great damage during the Mutiny. South of the Shah Bhurj lies the Hira Mahal followed by the Hammam or the Royal Bath. Built of marble and decorated with inlay, glass and paint, the royal bath consists of three elegant apartments, which were not only used as bathrooms but also for private meetings.

Next to the Hammam, lies the Diwan-i-Khaas or the hall of special audience built of white marble. Built upon a raised plinth and supported by 32 pillars, Diwan-i-Khaas was studded with precious stones set in floral patterns. Within the room on a white marble dais stood the famous peacock throne of Shah Jahan, which was carried off by Nadir Shah when he plundered Delhi in 1739.

South of Diwan-i-Khaas lie the private apartments of the emperor, called the Khaas Mahal. To the east is a large room known as the Baithak or the sitting room and leads on to a jharokha or overhanging gallery where the emperor appears before his subjects at sunrise each morning. To the south of Khaas Mahal, lie the apartments of the royal seraglio, called the Rang Mahal, the water-cooled apartment for royal ladies. The apartments are divided into six chambers. The four corner chambers have tiny pieces of glass embedded in the upper walls and is called Sheesh Mahal. South of Rang Mahal stands the Mumtaz Mahal, the palace of Shah Jahan’s eldest and favourite daughter Jahanara Begum.

The British added some buildings within the citadel when it was garrison, which continued to be used by the army. A sound-and-light show, which depicts the story of our freedom struggle is held every evening in the fort. Within the premises of the Red Fort lies the "Archaeological Museum" which depicts the entire Mugal life through dressage of utensils, paintings and weapons etc.

From the ramparts of the Red Fort, you can see Chandni Chowk — a market booming with life. It is the largest wholesale market in North India. Shah Jahan’s eldest and favourite daughter Jahanara Begum designed it.

Just a walking distance from the fort is the India’s largest mosque called Jama Masjid, Shah Jahan’s architectural gift to Delhi. Completed in 1658, this mosque has three gateways, four angle towers and two 40 m-high minarets. Tourists can enter into the mosque but do take precaution to take off your shoes and make sure that you are properly dressed before entering. You can also have a bird’s eye view of Delhi from the top of minarets.

On Sunday, towards the riverside of the Red Fort, you can witness a huge market called Sunday Market or Chor Market.