Saturday, June 16, 2001
F A S H I O N


A Punjabi takes UK fashion scene by storm
Ishara Bhasi

SOME like to create a Gothic look. Others like to shock people with revealing designs and pointed bras. Amid such blatant exhibition of eccentric ideas, designer Gurvinder Singh’s new woman — international in her outlook and individual in her style — stood out for her sensuality and mystique at the London Fashion Week.

Gurvinder Singh
Gurvinder Singh

Gurvinder, a twenty-six year old Punjabi, has emerged as one of the most important and influential new designers in London. He is the first designer of Punjabi origin to have exhibited his collection at London Fashion Week.

A leading internet and fashion magazine of UK, fuk, reported: "Designing under the name Guvinda, Gurvinder Singh’s winter collection is not for the sickly. Clothes from the ‘inner eye’ collection are for hearty lasses who don’t mind cold breezes whistling around exposed parts."

 


Ever since he was five years old, this Punjabi boy knew that he wanted to be a designer. Dressed in a white T-shirt, navy blue jumper and jeans, Guvinder says, "My family always supported me. My father told me ‘do whatever you really want to do’. Hanging around with my mother and sister, enjoying fabrics and colours got me interested in couture and my ambition never wavered." He is attracted by colours and loves experimenting with them. However, designing saris or salwaar kameez does not appeal to him. He knows what the young generation of British Asians wants . "When Asians see an upcoming designer, they take it for granted that he will be interested in Indian designs. People expect me to design saris just because I am an Asian! I have nothing against saris but that’s not what I am interested in," he adds.

A model displays one of Gurvinder’s creations
A model displays one of Gurvinder’s creations

After graduating in fashion, design and technology from the London College of Fashion, Gurvinder went on to specialise in fashion print from Central St Martin’s in 1996. Whilst working towards his degree Gurvinder worked with some of fashion’s leading names like Alexander McQueen and Selina Blow. He has also worked with Julien Macdonald. Speaking about McQueen who introduced Indian designs in the western world, Gurvinder says, "I like McQueen. I like his work. He designs from the heart." Gurvinder admires McQueen but does not believe in blindly following established designers. "At the end of the day you have to please yourself. If you just reproduce what others have done what is the point in being a designer and having a label?" he asks.

He says he is a man of simple tastes. "I like to wear sporty brands like Nike and baggy jeans." But then why the passion for fashion? "If you start working to please people then you will lose the soul of creativity. I wake up in the morning with a smile on my face because I do what I love to do, what I always wanted to do." He likes to experiment with pleats, slits on sleeves and drapes. This was reflected in his spring/summer collections where he used box and knife pleats that delicately opened to reveal fused fabrics to create an effective contrast. Called A Twist of Elegance, Gurvinder Singh’s collection for his Guvinda label at London Fashion Week was a winner all the way.

Heavily smocked over-dresses with asymmetric openings at the back, smocks and black heavily beaded jumpers with balaclavas attached to 30’s skiing outfits, were hallmarks of his designs. His black and gold sequined dress with fabric trailing from the sleeves stole the show.

The retail price of his garments is about £190. Though he has not yet bought a car, he manages to earn about £250,000 every season. He pumps back most of his earnings into designing for his label.

A well-liked London boy now, Gurvinder wants to set up base in Paris. "London loves young talent. But to be taken seriously you have to show your work in Milan or Paris. In Paris students get to work for the likes of Givenchy. Such exposure is very good for young upcoming designers. Paris and Milan have established fashion houses which London lacks."

He wants to be known as the ‘best designer in the world’. He was thrilled when actress Joan Collins called his collection "beautiful". He feels that being born into a family with an older brother and sister has helped him to excel in everything he has taken up.

He was also recently presented with the New Generation Designers Sponsorship Award from the British Fashion Council, placing his autumn/winter 2001 show on the London Fashion Week schedule.

London loves young talents. But the city of the young has fickle loyalties. Whether Gurvinder will remain one of its favourites, only time will tell.