FASHION footwear this year is taking a dramatic turn away from leather. It remains an option for clothes, though. But for shoes, most designers are opting for fabrics like jute and canvas. And if at all leather is used, it is in such refined versions as suede, nubuck and patent.

In many ways, these are turning out to be the coolest options to beat the heat. "The idea is not only to make a fashion statement, but to ensure that your feet can breathe," confirms Joe Yep, a second-generation shoemaker from China, settled in Calcutta.

"Nothing can be more torturous in the sweltering months than walking around in shoes that imprison your feet, not even allowing sweat to escape. So the emphasis is now on natural fibres like jute, cane, canvas and denim...while leather takes a backseat."

Comfort also dictates that closed shoes are out. In their place are sandals that expose a good part of the feet, both for men and women. Whether it is slip-ons, flip-flops, mules or clogs, the message is clear: go for fun footwear that matches your mood and your wardrobe.

This development is being attributed to the trends set in by last year’s International Shoe Sample Fair at Dusseldorf, Germany. For all the embroidered silk, embossed leather and animal prints on display as shoe uppers, the guiding principle was: "Anything you wear on your body can be worn on your feet."

"Bright colours and imagination will dominate the footwear segment," predicts Ramola Vij, a fashion consultant. "So do not be surprised when you find somebody walking past with a parrot perched daintily on her toes, or a bunch of sunflowers nestling close to the ankles."

This spirit of experimentation extends to men’s footwear also as open shoes in denim, burgundy and tan are fast replacing conventional laced Oxfords in brown and black. The look is sporty and style-wise, inspired by golf shoes. besides, there are varieties of slip-ons in natural colours and closed sandals with straps at the back to choose from.

But then, Renu Makhija of the Footwear Design and Development Institute (FDDI) does not see this as a definitive trend. "Indian men are still very conservative about their footwear," she points out. "Whatever be the swings in footwear trends internationally, they like to stick to safe shoes."

Arun Khanna, a footwear buying agent, is equally skeptical; "Everyone is talking about an alternative to leather, but in my opinion it will remain a perennial favourite. The reason fabric has become popular now is that design emphasis is on cheerful and youthful shoes.. These are fickle fashion trends."

Both Khanna and Makhija however, concede that synthetic leather holds great promise with footwear designers and already uppers with snake, crocodile and ostrich prints have taken the market by storm. In the non-leather category, embroidered silk shoe uppers are the current rage.

As for casual footwear, the hottest favourites are slip-ons, flip-flops and strappy sandals with single or multiple buckles. Some sandals have velcro straps instead of buckles. Colours range from silver, steel grey and copper to aquamarine blue, varmillion red and green, besides the standard blacks and whites.

Popular designs for slip-ons include beaded uppers, florals made of suede and a few with tassels. While mules with colourful embroidery and crystals are also in fashion, among flip-flops, the design to look for is the suede thong slip-on with a sunflower on top.

Flowers also take the form of lace, or tiny ribbons on strappy sandals. Yet another hot-selling range includes faux ostrich feathers combined with dry flowers. There are also multi-coloured, bright, beaded shoes with a texture of faux fur.

Even though platforms still sell, there is a move towards flat shoes and dangerously high heels. "It is time to ease out of platforms," advises Makhija. "Last year’s square toes are out and elegant round ones are coming back. And the sole has to be really slim and light-weight."

Designers like Yep are going for chrome and bamboo soles in brown and beige, with a dash of gold. Yellow and green denim shoes (flats and platforms) with a butterfly stuck on top characterise his casual range while semi-formals carry bead and crystal embellishments with an occasional pearl-studded strap. MF