Food Talk
Meat of the matter

Pushpesh Pant brings us the flavour of tala gosht, one of the many neglected regional dishes

Whenever Indian non-vegetarian dishes are mentioned, our mind only recalls exotic korma and kaliya, salan and do pyaza or even the mundane mutton or chicken curry. Ishtew and rogan josh are more often than not culinary clich`E9s, their personality having lost long ago of any distinctive features, the intrinsic character is debased - the original flavour lost in transit.

Saag or dahi, at times, are used to provide variety. At times, one tries out something different by ordering gosht kali mirch or made with methi. But such is the power of addiction to the familiar that we are loath to part company with these old faithfuls.

This has resulted in the neglect of a whole lot of interesting recipes that have traditionally enjoyed immense regional popularity. It is time we recognise the 'ugly ducklings' and let them reclaim their swanlike due. Tala gosht from the Hyderabadi repertoire can be an excellent beginning.

We renewed our acquaintance with this delicacy during a recent trip to the historic city in the Deccan at the popular eatery Shadab that nestles in the shadow of the famous Char Minar and firmly believe that it needs to be better known.

A scholarly gourmet friend tells us that the origins of this mouth-watering delicacy can be traced to the classic ayurvedic recipe talit maans mentioned in the bhavaprakash nighantu which is prescribed to rejuvenate an enfeebled body.

Tala gosht can be enjoyed as a snack independently or become a welcome spicy accompaniment pepping up a blander light meal. What we find most attractive about this dish is that it dwells in the twilight zone between the kebab and curry - bridging the gap without falling between the two proverbial stools.

It is easy to make, does not involve chopping, grinding and tiresomely frying onions, can be very basic or as aromatically elegant as you choose to make it.

Tala gosht should not be confused with bhuna gosht - a Punjab specialty that cuts the gravy. There is some need for this cautionary preface as in common usage tala-bhuna are treated as Siamese twins. Nor should the name translated literally to mean deep-fried. This is what, we suspect, puts off the health conscious from befriending it. Trust us, much less artery choking grease is used than in a dangerously rogan-laced gravy dish. In any case, you can leave the fat alone and pick the pieces. Even the red meat consumed comes in tiny, lean, boneless chunks.

The succulence of tala gosht is remarkable and brings back memories of the lagan ki boti in Lucknow. In Hyderabad, the preferred aromatising agent is cassia buds - kebab chini.

You may opt for javitri or jaiphal (mace or nutmeg). For best results cook in a thick-bottomed pan uncovered stirring occasionally. For the garnish, curry or mint leaves may be used.

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