Food Talk
Fast feast

Pushpesh Pant brings the festive specials.

THE festive season is not without its surprises. Fasting keeps pace with feasting and in September-October one has to cope with an almost month-long ‘ban’ on meat. Even die-hard carnivores prefer to give it a miss or at least have to put up with enforced abstinence during the pitri paksha — the fortnight marked in the Hindu calendar for performing shraddha when the departed ancestors are paid ritual homage. This is followed by navratra or nine nights dedicate to the worship of the nine incarnations of the great Mother Goddess.

This is the period when one rediscovers the many-splendoured delights of vegetarian repast. Restaurants even westernised deluxe ones as well as franchised phoren fast-food outlets bow before the sentiments of the pious and the closet orthodox.

This year, we met a long-lost friend in a Rajasthani thali. The dish was disappointing but brought back memories of an out-of-this-world bharwan gatte tasted at the friendly Kakkars house some years back. Besan whisked by hand and steamed after fashioning gatte were lighter than air and felt steamed even after deep-frying.

It is amazing what the denizens of the desert — where ‘greens’ are scarce and fresh vegetables of any other kind were (till the advent of fast transport in cool vans) an expensive exotica can do with lentils. Bhujiya, mongodi, papad, kadhi and we are still scratching the surface. It is in this repertoire that gatte arguably occupy the pride of place. This subzee is prepared as a special treat. Gatte ki subzee is a bit of an oxymoron. No vegetable actually contributes to the dish. It is almost staple fare in the arid Thar region and consistent with the desh-kaal (eating what is appropriate to the place and the climate) is relished by the natives and the visitors alike..

Bharwaan gatte

Ingredients

The Gatte
 Besan 250 gm
Ginger (finely chopped) 3 tsp
Baking soda 1tsp
Coriander (finely chopped) 1tsp
Yogurt (whisked) 60 gm
Ghee 4 tbsp
Salt to taste

The filling
 Paneer (grated) 125 gm
Green chillies (finely chopped) two
Khoya (grated) 60 gm
Ginger (chopped) 10 gm
Ghee to deep fry

The gravy
 Ghee (clarified butter) 100 gm
Green cardamom powder A large pinch
Cumin seeds 1 tsp
Fenugreek seeds 1 tsp
Cinnamon powder ¼ tsp
Turmeric powder 1 tsp
Yogurt (whisked) 2 cups
Coriander powder 5 tsp
Mace powder ¼ tsp
Red chilli powder 2 tsp
A generous pinch of asafoetida
A generous pinch of fenugreek leaf powder
Coriander (chopped) 1 tbsp
Salt to taste

Method

Sift gram flour, baking soda and salt into a tray, add the remaining ingredients and a little water, knead to obtain hard but pliable dough and divide into 24 equal portions. Mix all ingredients and divide into 24 equal portions. Flatten the gram flour balls, place a portion of the filling in the middle, make balls again and then make croquette-shaped gatta. Heat ghee in a deep pan, add the gatta and deep fry over medium heat until light golden. Remove to absorbent paper to drain excess fat. Put yogurt in a bowl, add coriander powder, red chillies and salt, whisk to mix well.

Heat ghee in a pan, add cumin and fenugreek seeds, stir over medium heat until the seeds begin to crackle, add hing, and stir until it puffs up. Remove from heat, stir-in yogurt mixture, stir-fry till the fat leaves the sides, add about three cups of water and salt, bring to a boil, reduce to low heat, add gatta, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the gravy is of thin sauce, consistency. Sprinkle green cardamom, clove, cinnamon and mace powders, stir, sprinkle kasoori methi, stir, remove and adjust the seasoning.

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