food talk
From the Parsi platter
Most Indians are not aware of the fire worshippers’ gastronomic tradition that has a distinct personality, says Pushpesh Pant

The Parsis represent a microscopic minority in the over a billion-strong Indian population. The diversity and magnitude of their contribution to their adopted land is truly amazing. Beginning from the GOM Dadabhai Naoroji and that great visionary Tata to those closer to our own times—the legendary JRD, the renaissance man Homi Bhabha and the one and only Zubin Mehta—the glittering stars keep expanding into a milky way where constellations of freedom fighters, ship builders, industrialists, physicians, surgeons, jurists, writers, poets, painters, musicians and Generals render the Indian skyscape uniquely resplendent.

The fire worshippers have provided both light and warmth to their compatriots. This is one minority that has never asked for reservations or special protection. Caring and sharing comes naturally to them. Not all Parsis are fabulously wealthy but when it comes to generosity of spirit and lavish hospitality, the riches are evenly distributed.

It is a pity that most Indians are not aware of the Parsi cuisine that has a distinct personality and dare I add addictive allure. The word Parsi derives from Persian but this gastronomic tradition has no affinity with the latter day Central Asian food more closely related to what goes by the name of Mughaliya on the subcontinent.

There is so much more to this inheritance than dhansak and patrani macchi. (Mind you we are exceptionally partial to both these delicacies ourselves). A chance meeting that foodie Indrajit had with the gracious grand dame Mrs Bhickoo Maneckshaw at the physiotherapist magically opened the doors of this seductive Sesame for us.

Mrs Manekshaw is the ‘wizard lady’ who has made magic in many worlds from the Taj Hotels to Air India, India International Centre and Basil and Thyme. Her book Parsi Food and Customs is a breathtaking, mouth-watering masterpiece—a seemingly effortless demonstration of how recipes should be written. She doesn’t only make things look easy, she actually makes them easy. We tried out the Tarima Gosht at home and were high for a long time. Follow the loveable leading lady—and enjoy.

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