FASHION
Line up for linen dresses
Fashion gurus recommend the cool and versatile linen fabric for hot and sultry summer days Dolly Sagar

This summer many of our fashion designer maestros have declared that there could not be any other material to flaunt than linen.

The greatest problem linen has as a wearing fabric is that most of us do not know its qualities. In another way, the very word linen makes it appear as if one is asked to make dresses out of bedclothes or furnishing!

Linen is the fibre of flax plant. Because of the natural wax content of the plant, there is subdued luster in dresses made from linen. You can iron it easily. It compares well with cotton, as linen shirts can be hand-washed without damaging the fibre. Very absorbent and very good conductor of heat, linen is cool for making summer garments.

When you wear linen suits/dresses, the first impression is that of casualness. But if a formal occasion is imminent, you can use the same linen dress without hesitation. For summer there is nothing to match the cool, icy sensation of linen, when it comes into contact with your skin.

Linen’s user friendly image is mainly due to its moisture absorbing capacity, its soft and supple nature, high tensile character and dust repellant quality. The cloth mills making linen find that from colours ranging from creamy white to light tan/brown, dying linen is easy and does not fade when subjected to washing.

Palika Sen, one of the top textile innovators of 2007, opines that trousers, capris, kurtas, dresses, shirts`85the options are endless when it comes to linen. Interesting cuts, well-defined edges, frills, hand-painted, machine work can further accentuate the look of the fabric.

Textile designer Krishna Rastogi advises that unlike any other dress material, the beauty of linen lies in its unique quality to crush. The effect of crushes rather gives a unique look to linen, even when worn formally. Linen wrinkles easily, so avoid styling concepts that have creases firmly pressed into them. It would be best to also avoid deep repeated folds, as the yarns tend to crack before they normally would. Go in for anti-fit, regular body fit as linen has an excellent drape.

Another fashion pundit Raghavendra Rathore feels that linen’s variety has gone broader and the essentially daily-wear fabric has come a long way "with cotton-mix, poly-mix and lycra–blend linen ruling the market" and stands out perfectly in the scorching heat. India being the land of babus, linen is fast catching the fancy of politicians, too.

Another distinct quality of linen is that dresses made out of it blend very well with accessories of other materials like cotton/silk. The different types of linen available in the market further broadens the chances of experimentation.

In India we make very good variety of linen. But the fashion designers prefer Egyptian, Japanese and the wrinkle-free poly- mixed Egyptian linen. Irish linen is prized for its fine white colour—-the colour of summer. Scottish linen is lighter in colour than Irish linen but a remarkable summer choice. French linen, which is characterised by fine designs, ranks high on the summer calendar. All these linen types are ideal for both uppers and (lined) bottoms as well.

Dress designer Payal Mehta has this to say of it. "Linen might not be every designer’s favourite fabric when it comes to detailing but it’s in no way lagging behind. Long, elaborate skirts, coats and dresses with subtle embroidery, threadwork and tone-on-tone detailing looks best on linen. Heavy embroidery, beadwork and zardozi is a big no-no as it takes away its natural charm".

Another guru of fashion world Baliga Pratap feels that if used judiciously, crystals and swarovskis can greatly increase the linen’s earthy understated elegance. But as it is inevitably a transparent fabric, you have to exercise great caution in limited use of these showy material. It is also essential that the combination on prints and embroidery used should accentuate the appeal of a formal linen collection.

When it comes to colours, let us face it, you cannot go wrong with beige and white for linen dresses. But of late bright orange/tangerine/and fuchsia are also used by fashion experts to make a personalised statement.

Another aspect of this fabric is that it has somehow gathered a unisex appeal and still maintains itself as a symbol of style, elegance and comfort.

If you want purely ethnic dress or would like to revel in hip-hops or flaunt just trendy casuals/exclusive party wear or subdued morning wear, you can find linen ready to ensure your individuality. — MF