Bangkok
The happening city
It offers a heady mix of the modern with the traditional. D.B.N. Murthy visits the city of temples, which is also famous for its nightlife and exotic food fare

There is magic in the air as one walks in the streets of this great city Bangkok, known as Krungthep, City of Angels. There are food carts everywhere serving hot delicacies. Seafood lovers have a great choice — one could choose one’s fish, turtles or squid right from the restaurants’ fresh water tank. Durian, the fruit that resembles our own jackfruit, has its own votaries. It is a heavenly fruit with a hellish smell — this is how it is described. No durian is allowed in the hotel. Opening up a durian fruit, with its thorny thick cover, is an art and to watch the cutter open it so dexterously is interesting. You might buy a piece just to satisfy your taste buds, in case you are not put off by the smell.

Wat Phra Kaeo is the most famous temple of Bangkok
Wat Phra Kaeo is the most famous temple of Bangkok

The city is infamous for its traffic jams and chaos, which make crossing of roads by pedestrians a hazard. However, numerous measures like having more flyovers, broader roads, lane discipline and traffic signals are being tried to ease the traffic congestion. The newly added metro is modern, fast and affordable. There are two lines which connect some important places within the city. Chao Phraya is the waterline of the city with its numerous boat-boarding jetties. These river taxis operate regularly and are inexpensive and fast, avoiding the mad traffic chaos and pollution.

If a bus would take an hour to cover a particular distance, the boat service, where it exists, completes it in 20 minutes, such is the convenience. The view from the boat is a kaleidoscope of colour and variety. Big long barges float up and down the river carrying cargo. In the evening, luxury boats carry well-heeled clientele to be wined and dined to music at a veritable glittering high-class floating restaurant. For the size of such a large city, the river is clean and relaxing on the vantage points. It is a pleasant and peaceful to be in cafes and restaurants near the river. Just to sit on the banks of the river sauvouring the balmy air and the enjoying the sights and sounds of an enchanting city is a memorable experience.

Some of the restaurants serve not only good food, Thai, Chinese, and French wines but also have the added attraction of genuine Thai classical music and dance, based on classical themes like Ramakien, which is the Thai version of the great Indian epic Ramayana. Some of the charming dancers, so much like our own graceful classical dancers, invite the audience to join them — a novel manner of audience participation to make the evening even livelier.

The city is a mix of verdant green and concrete
The city is a mix of verdant green and concrete

If a masked dancer slips behind you and wants to pose with you by putting his hands on your shoulder, don’t be surprised or shocked. That’s the Thai way of telling you that he is your friend. There is a wide choice of eating joints, from Thai to Indian. There are a couple of Indian restaurants serving veg and no-veg food catering to the high-end clientele. A number of restaurants serve excellent seafood. One could even choose one’s fish or marine life for one’s meal. Thai coffee is delicious. Bangkok is known for its exciting nightlife with its nightclubs and discos.

Bangkok is a city of temples. Out of the 400 temples, the most famous is the Wat Phra Kaeo, within the complex of buildings in the Grand Palace, where the Emerald Buddha is worshipped by the king, his family as well as by ordinary people. On certain days, when visitors are barred, the king or the crown prince might arrive at the temple and offer worship as well as hand out gifts to monks. The royal family is held in high esteem and so are the monks. A visitor has to exercise great caution in discussing the royalty or the clergy as any adverse remark could cause a serious problem. The emerald Buddha is made of jasper and the temple was consecrated in 1782. The outer walls are decorated with frescos depicting scenes from Ramakien. Indians can easily identify certain characters from the Ramayana depicted the Ramakien way.

Wat Pho is the temple of the 46 m long reclining Buddha and is the oldest and largest of the temples in the city. Wat Tramit has the world’s largest solid gold idol of Buddha, sitting in meditation with a serene smile. Candles are the favourite offerings to Buddha along with flowers and incense sticks. One may find some of the largest and most beautiful wax candles in these temples.

Wat Arun on the riverbank is aptly called the Temple of the Dawn as the early morning sun throws its golden rays on the temple. At night, it is brightly lit and has a beauty of its own. An interesting monument on the bank of the river is the fort named Phra Sumen. This octagonal-shaped structure, which has been declared a national monument, was built by King Rama I, and was renovated in 1981. In the heart of the city is the Democracy Monument with huge concrete spires. It is sort of a surrealistic design, commemorating the ushering in of a democracy movement, though the king remains the national head.

A few Hindu temples, mosques and churches are scattered in the city. However, most of the people here are followers of Theravada Buddhism. Interesting museums dot the city with objet d’art.

Even a short three-day visit to Bangkok will prove interesting and exciting given the commonality between Thais and Indians and so many places of tourist attractions to be seen and enjoyed. There is much to explore in the city and its surroundings where the people, despite the language problem, are helpful and tourist-friendly.

Fact file

Reaching there

By air: Many international flights fly into Bangkok

Rail or land route: From Malaysia or overland from Cambodia and Lao PDR. One can take a train or taxi to reach the city centre. There is an A/C Airport Express shuttle bus to the city centre.

Visa: On arrival (about $35)

Best season

Throughout the year, cooler months are November to February. Weather is warm and humid, light cottons desirable

staying there

A number of hotels suiting everyone’s budget are available. Hotel booking can be done at the airport. About $30 per day for two persons gets a decent A/C accommodation.

tips

Entry fee: Most places of tourist interest charge an entry fee.

Local transport: Bus, boat, taxi, motorbike, Tuk-tuk (three-wheeler). You can also opt for organised tours .

Currency: baht (B), $1= about 35 B

Language: Thai but English is fairly well understood and spoken.






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