Anklets have made a long journey from the traditional, and today, they are as much an accessory as bracelets and chandelier earrings, writes Dhanvanti Keshavrao

According to a jewellery encyclopaedia, anklets are a broad term for jewellery for the ankles. Most anklets are approximately 9.5 inches in length. Anklets can be flexible or solid (bangles) in design. They may be entirely silver or gold or a gemstone, pearl or design can be used to decorate it. However, it is usual to have unique sterling silver anklets with antique or modern designs.

There was time when the tinkling of anklets was the sign of a new bride in the house, as she moved around, delicately ensuring that she is heard before she is seen. The most ornate of Indian anklets was the jhanjhaar, meant for the bride, covering the entire foot and attached by hooks to the toe rings.

Anklets have made a long journey from the traditional, and today, they are as much an accessory to style statements of the fair sex as bracelets and chandelier earrings. Earlier they were made of silver and worn on both ankles but today mostly it is worn on just one ankle and sometimes in odd clusters of four or more. Then again there are mix ‘n’ match anklets and you can spot them in offices/parties/beaches/colleges and usually cost from Rs10 to Rs 2000 .

"They’re so dainty and feminine, which is why they are so popular," says Vasanthi Sairam , a college student. According to Ms. Sairam, a business management student, "the best way to flaunt one’s shapely legs is by wearing a pair of delicate anklets." "They’re chic and have nothing to do with culture or tradition. I wear them because they’re stylish," says Manjula Phadnis, an event manager.

Anklets have a lot to do with the shape of your leg. For example, for actress Sushmita Sen, a simple gold chain and bell variety on a single foot might suit, whereas for you it has to be a pair of beaded anklets on both feet. In fact fashion designers tell us that it is the style to wear five different types of anklets on the same foot.

Fashion designer Rama Chowdhury, who specialises in wooden bead anklets, opines that the day of the simple silver anklet is over. In fact Chowdhury is trying to popularise anklets made of coconut coir, the principle being the more esoteric the anklet is, it is more noticeable. This had let to even anklet tattoos making their appearance.

Still the chunky kada type anklet has its own admirers. Radha Singhal, one of Bombay’s noted jewellery designers, states: "Usually they are fitted anklets, with bands of gold and crystals/diamonds suspended. But in these types of anklets you have to wear them low to keep them visible. Of late anklets of gold, made of hand-woven gold threads that look like lace have become popular".

Fashion designer Kaushalya Chatterjee states that anklets can define the look a wearer wants to project. For an ethnic look with a saree, you can opt for the heavy oxidised variety with bells. For a modern look, go for beads and crystals. And if you want to be that casual chic, then tattoos or silver anklets in a thin chain with charms shaped as hearts, bells or stars look quite neat. Threaded anklets are also gaining popularity for their tribal look. "They are basically like friendship bands and woven in different patterns. While coloured threads are common, one can also find these in jute and coir". Jewellery designer Sulochana Panchal points out that with their tribal look, of late threaded anklets in cotton/jute/coin are becoming favourites. In the case of bead anklets, colour is the main attraction, especially when woven in different ways or in a bangle form. For silver anklets, the choice is between a chunky design or a thin chain embellished with charms like hearts/bells, providing a casual look.

Today’s craze in anklets seems to be on single threads of beads and threads woven together. Other favourites are iridescent beads, crystals and anklets studded with pink tourmaline/orange onyx/blue turquoise`85 brighter the colour the better.

Of late toe anklets have become a necessary adjunct for dressy occasions. With loops that go around the toes, these look quite "cool". If you are after more elaborate stuff, then you have full boot anklets, which basically cover your whole feet, except the soles, with meshes of silver bells and other charms.

Of late one curious aspect of wearing the anklets has been that you do not use only silver but gold also. For centuries, Indian fashion has frowned on gold—the emblem of Lakshmi being kept on your feet. But as the fashion market got crowded with crystals and precious-coloured stones, the designers found that only gold can give the dignified look to the anklets studded with these baubles. — MF