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          food talk
 Meat of the matter
 The simple raseela
          gosht does away with the grinding and frying of the masala,says Pushpesh
          Pant
  THERE
          are times when the heart, actually the palate, pines for something
          simple yet flavourful, light yet satisfying. Those are the days when korma
          and kaliya seem much too elaborate and even the good-old salan
          appears to be bothersome. For long, we have relied upon the khade
          masale ka gosht or the ishtew to rescue us in the kitchen.
          But then, as the adage has it variety is the spice of life and man
          does not live by these two faithful friends alone. This yearning led
          us to the trail of ‘exploration and innovation’ and the discovery
          of the joys of raseela gosht.
 Basically, the idea is
          to save time on backbreaking chores like grinding and frying the
          masala and to avoid personal supervision of browning the meat to just
          the right hue or oil parting company with the spice paste etc. The
          recipe gifted to us by an equally lazy foodie friend blends simple
          home-style gravy with the simplicity of the aromatic whole spices. Make no mistake though.
          This is not accomplished by adding hot water to the mutton braised in
          its own juices, slow cooked on the dum. If you wish to savour
          the true delight raseela gosht offers, you must treat it as an
          individual with a distinct personality. All that is common with khade
          masale ka gosht is the use of whole, not ground, spices. And, all
          that is common to ishtew is the slow unsupervised cooking. The
          quantity of onions used is much less. The proof of the pudding, and
          much else that is produced in the kitchen, is in the eating. If you
          are not happy with the plain Jane and must transform her like the
          fairy godmother into Princess Cinderella, go ahead and add a few
          strands of mace or `BC tsp of grated nutmeg. 
            
              | raseela
                gosht Ingredients Mutton (preferably
                shoulder pieces mixed with a few chops) 1 kgGhee 100 gm
 Green cardamom six
 Cloves six
 Black cardamom
                three
 Cinnamon stick (1
                inch long) two
 Bay leaves two
 Black peppercorns
                20
 Coriander seeds
                (coarsely pounded) 2 tsp
 Garlic pods
                (medium sized) two
 Ginger (cut in
                thick strips) 2 inch
 Whole red chillies
                four
 Onions medium
                sized (sliced thickly) three-four
 Coriander (washed
                and chopped, optional) 2 tbsp
 Salt to taste
 Method Heat ghee in a
                pan. Add green cardamom, cloves, black cardamom, cinnamon, bay
                leaves, peppercorns and coriander seeds. Stir over medium heat
                until the cardamom begins to change colour. Now add the meat and
                stir-fry for a few minutes, add the garlic and ginger and salt,
                stir-fry until the liquid evaporates. Then add the onion
                and, stir-fry for a while on high heat. Add the red chillies to
                the pan. Preferably the whole red chillies may be dipped in
                water for half an hour. Add a cup of water and cover with a lid
                over medium heat. Stir occasionally till the mutton is tender.
                If required, small quantities of hot water may be added to the
                mutton. Once cooked, sprinkle the chopped green coriander to the
                dish. It is best enjoyed with hot tawe ki roti or
                steaming plain rice. |  |