Food talk
Arbi all the way
A staple for ritual fasting, arbi
can make a foodie drool with delight, writes Pushpesh
Pant
There
are food historians who insist that the potato is an import
that the Portuguese brought with them to our land. To raise the
hackles of lovers of swadeshi further, they add that the firangee in
turn had encountered the wonderful tuber in southern America. We had
always wondered then what explains references to alukam in
ancient texts that certainly predate the landing of much hyped
explorer of the Indies Vasco da Gama?
Friends more learned
than us have convinced us that this really should be treated as an
abbreviation for pindalukam and translated as arbi in plain
Hindustani. True enough, this is what arbi is called in Uttaranchal
— pinalu. Elsewhere in the Hindi belt, arbi has other popular
names kachalu, ratalu and ghuiyan. It is
the prescribed vegetable for the days of ritual fasting but to be
honest has been unable to shake off the plebian tag.
There are a few rare
exceptions like the Awadhi dabi arbi ka saalan and the Brindabani
arbi that can make the gourmet drool and go into raptures but we
must confess that we have not been as excited by an arbi recipe as
that of shahi arbi served to us by our Nepali kitchen artiste Manju
Mami. Born and brought up in Delhi she is understandably quite partial
to so-called shahi gravies for paneer or mushroom delicacies. But
thank heavens this time she spared us the richness of makhan-malai-
mewa-makhana and relied entirely for the satin smooth texture and
‘touch me not’ eye appeal — not to forget the long lingering
refreshingly different taste — on the natural goodness of arbi.
Shahi arbi
Ingredients
Arbi 500 gm
Tomato (medium-sized, skinned and grated) one
Onion (medium-sized, sliced very fine) one
Bay leaf one
Ginger paste 1 tsp
Garlic paste ½ tsp
Dhania powder 1 tsp
Garam masala (preferably Kashmiri
or homemade) 1 tsp
A pinch of haldi
Dahi (sweet and thick) 200 ml
Green chillies (deseeded and slit) 2-3
Ghee 1 tsp
Shahi jeera ¼ tsp
Salt to taste
A few strands of saffron soaked in lukewarm milk (optional)
A sprig of hara dhania for garnish
Method
Boil the arbi taking care
that these are not mushy. Cool and peel. Flatten the arbi a little
between palms and deep-fry till light golden. Place on absorbent
kitchen towels to remove excess oil. Put a little oil in a pan, add
the bay leaf wait till it changes colour, add and fry onions on medium
flame till translucent. Now add the garlic and ginger pastes and
stir-fry briskly for a minute then put in the powdered spices mixed
with a little water to avoid burning. Stir-fry for about 30 seconds
and then add the tomatoes. Continue to stir-fry till moisture
evaporates. Reduce heat to low and pour in the dahi mixed with a
little water very slowly to avoid curdling stirring continuously.
Increase flame, bring to boil then add arbi reduce heat and simmer for
about seven minutes. Heat ghee and temper with shahi jeera. Sprinkle
the saffron strands before serving if using.
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