Food talk
Flower power

From a snack to delicious gravy meal, achari gobhi can be relished in all avatars, 
writes Pushpesh Pant

Make no mistake. Achari gobhi is not to be confused with gobhi ka achar that is the Siamese twin of the shalgam ka achar. Quite a few lovers of food make a similar mix up when achari gosht and gosht ka achar are concerned. One is a cooked dish in pickling spices, the other a pickle proper. None is particularly subtle but both have a distinct allure. We were reminded of the forgotten family recipe by son Indrajit on a day when appetite was sluggish and the weather hot. Just what the doctor prescribes to let the gastric juices flow.

Also, let us not forget that different families have home recipes for the favourite pickles and this opens up great vistas for experimentation. The achari gosht or vegetables can be prepared in a different garb each time. The beauty of this recipe is that it can be very little effort transformed from a dry finger food like snacky item to a deliciously different substantial gravy accompaniment to roti or rice.

We strongly recommend it because the good old cauliflower has started to jade the palate. There was a time when the appearance of phoolgobhi made the heart leap up with joy. It announced the arrival of sawan when gobhi parantha or pakora could be indulged in to the hearts’ delight. Aloo gobhi stretched it as long as the prices did not fall. When it could play solo, it did so in great style — mini-florets cooked in tsps of milk, or ghuti gobhi UP-ishtyle. The Awadhi bawarchi made a musallam or gunche ka qima and the Bengalis showed off creativity by combining it with orange kernels.

One can only lament the decline of the edible flower. Masala gobhi drenched in pre-packaged spices and oozing artery choking oil — the staple of marriage ‘banquets’ — has really made the poor thing wilt almost beyond redemption. We choose to think of achari gobhi as the long-awaited revenge of the ravaged. Enjoy it.

Chef’s corner

Ingredients
A large head of cauliflower
Kalonji 1tsp
Mustard seeds 1tsp
Saunf 1tsp
Methidana 1tsp
Whole red chillies 2-3
Green chillies 2-3
Peppercorns `BD tsp
Amchoor powder `BD tsp
Red chilli powder `BD tsp
Mustard oil 50 ml
Lime juice 1tbsp
A large pinch of haldi powder
A pinch of hing
A sprig of curry leaves

Method
Break the cauliflower into large florets. Wash well, then scald in a pot of boiling water. Refresh immediately in cold water and pat dry. Heat oil in a thick-bottomed pan when it reaches smoking point, lower the flame and add the spice seeds. When these begin to crackle, add the red and green chillies. Remove the red chillies as soon as they change colour and the green ones when they acquire a glaze. Now add the cauliflower and stir in the powdered spices. Cover and cook on sim. Remove from flame when done to taste. The cauliflower should retain a bite. Now heat a little mustard oil in a pan, dissolve hing in it and scald the curry leaves. Pour the tempering over the gobhi. Sprinkle the lime juice over the dish. Achari gobhi is now ready to delight you and the guests.

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