Food talk
 Keema-murg jugalbandi

This street-side favourite can be mimicked for vegetarian guests, writes Pushpesh Pant

THE debate about red versus white meats has left quite a few food lovers confused. Should they or shouldn’t they indulge in their favourite flesh? Wisdom, it seems, lies in caution and moderation. Our good doctor, a lover of food, prescribes well indeed ‘cut down and combine but deny yourself not’. Inspired by this, we have a recipe that brings together chicken and kid/lamb. This combo dish, alas, can’t claim to be original. Long years ago when the writer used to dwell in the Civil Lines — on Flag Staff Road to be precise — redoubtable Gullu used to dish out a brilliant gosht from his munificent khomcha parked near the Othorty. Othorty was, of course, the motor transport authority where people lined up for driving licences and fitness certificate licences. The wait was gruelling, the process not very transparent and the torture was made bearable by the mouth-watering stuff doled out by the master.

The spicing was classic Punjabi — a take-off on rarha gosht — oozing fat, a few pieces of kaleji thrown in with well-fried pyaaz providing the base for homemade meat masala. Believe us, those base metal plates were worth their weight in gold. Gone are the days, and though the spirit is willing flesh (our own) can’t cope with either the red animal product or generous amounts of fat used in traditional cooking.

Overcome by nostalgia, we thought of tinkering with the all-time street side favourite and are glad to report that the lightened healthier dish retains much of its magic. What is more, the non-vegetarian beauty can be mimicked easily for the shakahaari guests substituting the mutton mince with soya granules or mushrooms/zimikand keema. The boneless chicken can in this avatar yield place to chunks of paneer/tofu. The idea is to provide a pleasant contrast in texture and taste. We have learnt from experience that the jugalbandi tastes better if you eschew tomatoes and stay loyal to one dominant spice of your choice that registers its presence on the palate.

Chef’s corner

Ingredients

Paneer/Chicken(boneless cubes culled from breast) 300 gm
Mutton /vegetarian mince 200 gm
Bay leaf one
Cloves 2-3
Peppercorns 1 tsp
Cinnamon stick 1 inch Dried ginger (sonth) 1 tsp
Kashmiri lal mirch 1 tsp
Jeera powder 1 tsp
Dhania powder 1 tsp
Haldi powder ¼ tsp
Dahi (hung) 200 ml
Garlic paste 1 tbsp
Medium onion (sliced fine) one
Oil ½ cup
Salt to taste

Method

Blend the powdered spices with dahi and marinate the chicken/paneer cubes in it for at least an hour. Heat the oil in a thick-bottomed pan. Put in the bay leaf and the whole spices in it. Reduce heat to medium and add sliced onions. Stir-fry briskly till onions are reddish brown. Now add the mince. Add salt, continue stir-frying till the meat loses its raw smell, the mixture is evaporated, and is well browned. The vegetarian mince requires much less time. Now put in the chicken/paneer cubes with the marinade and continue cooking on medium flame till done to taste. Add half a cup of boiling water and simmer till moisture evaporates if the keema and boti are preferred well done. Sprinkle homemade garam masala/cardamom powder or a large pinch of nutmeg and mace powders on top before serving hot. Garnish with slit green chillies, matchstick strips of fresh ginger and a sprig of mint if you really want to dazzle.





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