Food talk
Magic of two The pairing of tomatoes and garlic makes this mutton curry hard to resist,
writes Pushpesh Pant
WHO
doesn’t love curried meats? Mutton, chicken and fish are consumed by
tones on the sub-continent and far outweigh the more snobbishly named qormas,
kaliyas and salans. By now, everyone is wise to the
secret that it is the kari from Tamil Nadu of yore that is the
mother of all curries but this knowledge doesn’t ensure that you are
guaranteed satisfaction whenever you order the dish.
The
problem is more acute with mutton/kid. It takes longer to tenderise
and requires greater culinary skills to cope with what we like to call
the ‘spicing challenge’. Even when the meat is done to taste more
often than not it tastes monotonously the same. There are interesting
options in Purani Dilli, Lucknow and Bhopal like alu gosht, gobhi
gosht and, of course, tamatar gosht. Seldom have we had a
really exciting mutant of these classics at home.
This is the reason we
can’t wait to share with our readers the recipe we recently savoured
at a friend’s house. The tari was light and exceptionally
flavourful. The magic was created by the jugalbandi of tomatoes
and garlic. We have in past sang paens to a single ingredient
providing the key flavour e.g. adraki champ or methi macchi
or kali mirch ka murg. Now we admit that the pairing of two
tasty notes make no less powerful an impact. Tomatoes lend a pleasant
touch of sourness and accent the tint and garlic contributes not only
its distinct taste but also enhances the warm after-glow. All in all a
very satisfying mutton curry that can hold its own against all. We
also feel that using mustard oil instead of the ubiquitous refined oil
also chips in this symphony. Do please try out this recipe just right
for the late monsoon.
tamatarwala
lehsuni gosht
Ingredients
Mutton 1 kg
Onions 300 gm
Tomatoes 500 gm
Garlic (medium
sized) 2 pods
Cinnamon 1inch
stick
Brown cardamoms
2
Black
peppercorns ½ tsp
Deghi/Kashmiri
mirch 1 tsp
Jeera powder
1 tsp
Dhaniya powder
2 tsp
Mustard oil 100
ml
Salt to taste
A small sprig
of fresh coriander (for garnish)
Method
Clean wash and pat dry
the meat. Peel and thinly slice the onions. Peel and grind to
paste the cloves of garlic. Wash and chop or puree the tomatoes.
Heat oil in a pan to smoking point then reduce heat to medium
and put in the whole spices. As soon as these begin to change
colour, add the onions. Stir-fry the onions till these are light
golden in colour. Then add the garlic paste and powdered spices,
along with the salt. Stir-fry for a minute. Add tomatoes and
continue frying till the fat begins to separate. Now put in the
meat and continue frying for about 15 minutes. Pour a cup of
water and cook under pressure for five minutes. Remove from heat
and let the pressure come down on its own. Transfer to serving
dish and garnish.
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