Food talk
When chilli does the magic No complicated grinding or fancy spices are required for
preparing surkh murg, writes Pushpesh Pant
WHO
doesn’t know that the world of ‘chicken lovers’ is
divided sharply between those who favour the robust-flavoured desi
bird and those who prefer the softer flesh and milder taste of the ‘bred
for the table’ broilers. Some time back, we were informed by a
friend who claimed expertise in poultry that we could pick from the
shelves of food marts ‘croilers’ that combined the virtues of two
kinds. But that is another story.
Travelling
with my son in the strife-torn countryside of Chhattisgarh, we were
not long ago treated to a karak nag murg dinner. Not only was
the bird khalis desi but also was of striking jet-black colour.
This bird had plumage not shared with the gora leghorns or
brownish monarchs. Our host made up in generosity of spirit what was
lacking in terms of ingredients. The riches of poverty were stunning.
We were surprised by what just red chillies and salt can do to a dish.
No fancy aromatics, no complicated grinding to a fine paste of onions
and garlic, ginger was not particularly missed either. The karak
nag slaughter is prescribed ritual to propitiate local gods — to
ward off the evil eye, as a thanksgiving after wish fulfilment and the
special meal is greatly enjoyed by family and friends. Small leaf cups
brimming over with intoxicating homemade mahua are passed and
add to the joyous celebratory mood. The evening was magical and
rekindled memories of jangal maans and banjara gosht
dished out by the disciples of Maharaja Saheb Sailana.
A friend, who didn’t
know when to stop, complained of lit up ‘taillights’ and thought
that the surkh murg could only be compared to laal maans
from Rajasthan. Wiser by his experience, we have toned down the recipe
a little and found a few companions for the laal chhari maidan
khari (mirchi) and are confident that you dear readers will
enjoy the dish.
Surkh
Murg
Ingredients
Chicken (without
skin and cut into 8-10 pieces) 800 gm
Kashmiri red
chilli powder 2-3 tsp
Haldi powder ½
tsp
Dhania powder 1
tsp
Dahi (drained of
water) 2 tbsp
Oil/ghee 2 tbsp
Salt to taste
Method
Clean and wash the
chicken pieces well and pat dry. Mix the powdered spices and the
salt with dahi and rub this all over the chicken pieces. Let the
pieces remain in this marinade for at least 45 minutes. Heat
ghee or oil in a thick-bottomed pan and when it reaches smoking
point, reduce heat and carefully put in the chicken pieces.
Stir-fry on medium
heat till moisture evaporates and the chicken is browned. Remove
from heat. Let cool and then pour in very slowly stirring
constantly the remainder of the marinade so that the dahi doesn’t
curdle.
Add ¼ cup water,
cover with a tight lid and simmer for about 15 minutes or till
done to taste. Tastes great hot or cold with roti. Even the
broiler seems to yield its ‘flavour’ when cooked with tender
loving care.
The temptation may
be there but resist — no bay leaf, peppercorns, cloves,
cinnamon and cardamoms.
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